Category Archives: Tasmania
From January 26th to February 2nd, I traveled around Tasmania and visited as many areas as I could that were safe from the raging fires all around the state. I tried to take as many pictures as I could with my phone in between the times that I would take out my DSLR to take dedicated landscape images. Most of the trip was spent hiking with a backpack for camping gear and a frontpack containing my camera. These are some of the images that I took along the way along with thoughts that I scribbled down on an old fashioned pen and paper diary.
January 26: While on the plane:
The plans for this trip have had to be altered time and time again due to raging fires that were worse than our 2016 trip. Our original plan to hike the Eastern Arthurs was abandoned several months ago as Tim, Francois and eventually Luke, had other pressing life issues to attend to. My leave was already set in stone and since we would be moving out of home shortly after this trip, I figured I would persist with the trip. Lately I feel that I’ve been struck by some sort of travel curse. First , there was the snow incident in Canada where I managed to dent a rental with my bare hands while trying to push it out of snow. Then, there was the alleged accident that I caused in 2017 while driving to Nelson Lakes (which I still feel I wasn’t responsible for!). This was topped by being septic with appendicitis in March last year needing emergency surgery while in Tauranga. Thankfully, a couple of family trips to Fiji and Canada since have proven uneventful. However, the travel curse came back to haunt me as three weeks ago, I inexplicably came off my bike resulting in a fractured 9th rib. It was still sore though not so much when walking. I hope that carrying a heavy pack doesn’t aggravate the injury too much or limit my walking!
January 26 : Adelaide to Cape Raoul
I’m writing this section of the diary from the amazing Lake Tahune hut which I will describe later. I should note that I’m writing this while sitting on a bench under a thermostat regulated heater while my phone charges on a USB hub. Looks like I made the right decision to push on through to here for 2 nights ! Anyway, back to the trip.
When I arrived, the rental car queue was already growing and it was just pure bad luck that a first time renter was immediately in front of me in the queue. He spent 20 minutes asking all sorts of insurance questions which I’m sure I caused me great angst once upon a time. My pickup was once again, very routine and by 1pm , I was driving to meet Luke (http://luketscharke.com/) at Sorrell Woolworths after picking up some jetboil fuel from Anaconda. The poor air quality that I could see from the plane was evident right throughout this first day. In fact, from the plane, the fires over the Great Lakes area could easily be seen.
My shopping list from Woolies : 10L of water for dry hikes, a pack of hot cross buns, muesli bars and skittles for munchies. I had packed everything else from Adelaide. We had a fast food lunch at MacDonalds while discussing the potential candidate hikes for the rest of my trip. Mount Rufus, Frenchmans Cap, Freycinet circuit were all mentioned and at this stage I was favouring the North East given that no fires were present in that part of the state. We only set off from lunch at 2:30pm an drove through constant smoke haze behind many Australia day holiday goers who magically thinned out once we were past Port Arthur. Cape Raoul’s car park at Stormlea lay off a dirt road and was reasonably large, possibly in anticipation of integrating this with the already established Three Capes walk.
During our 7km hike, we talked mainly about photographic issues and the trail really only opened up once at a lookout 30 minutes into the walk , and then 1km from the end of the trail. Thanks to some directions from Nick Monk (http://nickmonkphotography.com/) about camping sites, we were able to find some locations protected in the scrub but in the end, we opted for the bushes lining dried out pond right near the end of the Cape. From here we explored a few vantage points as the sun set below thick smoke haze leading to a disappointing lack of light during ‘golden hour’. At the tip of Cape proper, it took me some time to acclimatize to standing 200m above the sea with steep dropoffs either side. As we returned to camp and chowed down dinner (Rice and Bovril for me), I found that my MSR tent and new fly stood up to some brief downpours of rain and moderate gusts of wind overnight.
January 27: Cape Raoul to Cape Pillar
This dawn would be one of a few bushfire ‘hazed’ dawns for the trip. The sun itself shone red through the smoke haze which prevented colour from permeating through the horizon and the rest of the sky. Luke did his best to tempt fate at the edge of a particularly sketchy cliff face while I played it just a little safer! While Luke kept shooting well after dawn, I took the opportunity to have my prepacked breakfast of powdered milk and muesli and had a brief snooze.
During the 7km walk out, Luke and I discussed many things including some common ground about how we felt about the Australian Geographic NPOTY results from 2018. Overall, we were concerned that the direction seemed to be toward ‘pure art’ rather than the depiction of natural world and representation of real scenes, real light and real conditions. Discussions like this with like minded photographers only serve to consolidate my desire to continue shooting the wilderness primarily (though I will shoot anything!). After goodbyes at the car park where Luke lent me his personal locator beacon, I wolfed down a chicken pie and coke before heading to the Cape Pillar trail-head at Fortescue Bay campground. The campground was completely full and I nearly couldn’t find a park to begin the walk!
By the time I sorted out my bags , it was just after 12pm and I had given myself 4 hours to get to the tip of Cape Pillar. The first section through the ‘old Cape Pillar’ track was stifling due to the heat and complete lack of breeze. The more attractive forest scenes started to appear only after the track joined the new Cape Pillar track heading to Munro hut and beyond.
During this section of the walk, the boardwalk was certainly a nice feature to walk on. Indeed, there were cries of it being a ‘superhighway’ but personally, I felt this to be a bit of an over-call. I do feel it’s a touch excessive but I’m sure not unappreciated by the likes of people like me and many others. Munro Hut looked amazing and for the price of the paid walk, it had better be!. I noticed lots of clean boots outside immaculate dorms and many clean walkers thanks to the presence of a shower! My 5 minute water break there was a relief. The last 6km to the Cape were quite painful on the shoulders, feet and spirits though the walk itself wasn’t at all tough. Even my eyes were smarting from the smoke and sunscreen laden sweat.
Shortly before 4pm, after a marathon boardwalk section leading to the spectacular sea cliff section of the walk, I found a camping site very close to the turn off for the ‘blade’. Given how established these spots seemed, I’m guessing they were used by the workers constructing the trail. After 23km of walking for the day, I had a bit of a granny snooze with the tent set up without the fly. I made a few trips of the short climb to the blade and again acclimatized myself to standing at the edge of a precipitous drop overlooking Tasman Island to the south. Fortunately , despite the westerly gusts, the top of the blade offers sheltered sections to retreat to if you lose your nerve temporarily! That evening, I felt that I got some reasonable images and headed down well before sunset thanks to the predictable smoke induced ‘unset’ that obliterated any light 20 minutes before actual sunset. Bovril rice and jerky for dinner again and I was not yet sick of it!
January 28: Cape Pillar to Lufra Hotel
With the camp to myself and less violent conditions than the previous night, I actually got a few hours of much needed sleep that night. When I got up, I thought I’d check out Tasman Island for potential star trails but sadly, smoke haze was heavy due south so my only night shots were of the magellanic clouds with the cruise ship ‘Celebrity Solstice’ inbound for Hobart sneaking across my frames. The capes were also lit up by massive floodlights which I presume was for the benefit of the cruise passengers? Dawn itself heralded another ‘unrise’ thanks to smoke blowing in from the west, but there was some interesting lighting on Tasman Island nonetheless. Just after 8am, I had packed up and broken camp, a routine I’ve rapidly accustomed to on this trip.
When I started walking, I was initially worried about some hamstring tightness and my sore feet but thankfully both settled in as the joints warmed up. The return leg seemed a little easier with my stops planned out in advance. Along the way, many walkers were doing a day trip from the Munro Hut and a few appeared to be heading out for a very long in and out from the carpark. When I arrived back at the carpark , 3hours 15 minutes had elapsed and my first priority was to get clean and have a snooze in a bed before planning what I would do for the rest of the trip. Lufra hotel was conveniently situated at the Tessellated Pavement and after a hasty check-in and shower, a beef burger was downed in record time. After laundry was done, I napped for an hour before taking a random drive in search of an easy sunset location.
I found the thirty degree heat to be quite stifling so I didn’t really achieve anything other than using up fuel. A new fire had unfortunately developed on Waterfall Bay road but thankfully, aerial bombing was successful and it was extinguished by that evening. It did however leave the area smoked out for the rest of the evening. Luke had given me a tip that the Dunalley bakery was a pretty good failsafe but unfortunately, this was the dedicated Australia day holiday and as such nothing was open. Dinner by the ‘Doo-lishus’ fish and chips stall was , as its namesake, delicious! I had plenty of time on my hands , so I headed to Norfolk Bay where I witnessed colours gradually obscured by the haze of the day’s fire. Despite having a comfortable bed to spread out on, I really didn’t sleep much – perhaps a touch of worry about the unknowns that a trek to Frenchmans Cap might bring? Big shout out to Nick Monk for giving me assistance with planning a possible night up at Barron Pass at some stage during the walk.
January 29 : Tessellated Pavement to Barron Pass
An early start thanks to an absolutely blazing dawn. Unfortunately the patterns I may have shot at the pavement were mostly not possible due to a high tide. Another note to self: No barefoot shooting there! I was eaten alive by mozzies the moment I took off my boots so that I could keep my feet dry for the upcoming hike.
At 6:45 after shooting a timelapse and many single frames, I checked out of Lufra and set off for the trailhead. I briefly stopped at Sorrell for supplies – including some dental floss of all things. I called home to let Marianne know I was headed to Frenchmans Cap and had a chance to talk briefly to the girls before their first day of school for the year.
Hitting the road, I entrusted google maps to get me there using the quickest route, however I ended up on dirt road for a good 45 minutes at one stage. By the time I was approaching Tarralea, I was flagging so I stopped for a quick bite to eat and stocked up on 2 sausage rolls for the hike in. It was a strange town set up around the hydro operations there – almost seemed like a fake town??
45 minutes down the road at 10:45 I arrived at the trailhead and instantly noticed the fly infestation in the area. These flies were serious – so big that I thought for a second that a swarm of bees had descended on me! As I finished preparations for the backpack and checked the logbook, I noticed many had started the trail in the previous 3 days but only 1 other party on the same day as me. My memory of the track was that it was in awesome condition! There had been no recent rains, but even so, the irrigation systems and boardwalks looked like they had been doing their job in recent times thanks to Parks Tasmania and Dick Smith’s valuable contributions.
Rough timelines for future trips in include : 75 minutes from the carpark to the Loddon River ; the highlight was seeing Frenchmans cap for the first time at the top Mount Mullens. Another 75 minutes of gradual ascent around from the previously known (but now diverted) sodden Loddon plains led to another steep climb and descent to the plains where Lake Vera lies. I stopped for a drink and snack break before pushing on toward Barron Pass. The section along the north shore of Lake Vera was beautiful with rather inventive track cutting .
After filling up my drink bottles at Vera Creek, it was a tough 80 minute slog up to Barron Pass. I was really feeling the previous two days walking coming up this section of track – beautiful and lush as it was. At the top of the path, the scenery really opened up giving grandstand views of Nicole’s Needle and White’s Needle , the valley beyond and Frenchmans Cap in the distance. I pitched tent in a small pad just off the path to White’s Needle and rapidly rehydrated and rested. I didn’t have the energy to search for the aspect of Nicole’s Needle that Luke had shown me courtesy of a Dombrovskis image. Sunset was clear but brilliant as rays shone down into the valley and on to the face of White’s Needle. As the sun sank below the ridgeline, I managed to check a forecast on my phone which suggested cloud cover incoming overnight. With that in mind, I opted for an early night.
January 30: Barron Pass to Frenchmans Cap
This is finally ‘today’ as I am writing this rather in retrospect. The sleep in my awkwardly pitched tent was reasonably good despite the uneven ground and roots. I rose at 3:30am and saw a sliver moon with stars despite the forecast for 100% cloud cover! I put on some gear in a hurry and about 20 minutes later, found myself among pandani along a boulder scree slope overlooking Nicole’s Needle. Having only been introduced to the Dombrovskis shot 2 days earlier,it was hard to tell if I shot the same one? There were so many appealing compositions to choose from.
The walk back in dawn light was when I could really appreciate the path that I took. I broke camp fr the last time this trip and again by 8’ish, I was on my way out without having been in any kind of rush. From Barron Pass to Lake Tahune only took 1.5 hours of leisurely walking without getting clammy. It’s probably the best stretch of the walk in terms of feeling you are among the mountains. Along the way, I met some younger hikers on their way out from what I would later hear, was a packed Lake Tahune hut.
After another steep descent past ‘Artichoke Valley’ the magical electrical self sustaining Lake Tahune hut appeared and I’ve had a warm comfy base to return to ever since! I met a few more outgoing hikers while 3 others were staying a second night keeping me company. They had all done much more walking in Tasmania than I had as we shared stories over the usual hut activities.
After they had all departed on day trips, I slept for an hour or so to recover from the previous nights average sleep. I then set off on a recon walk with no gear and somehow ended up on Frenchmans Cap summit as I kept going up and up and up. Being completely honest, despite the expansive views from the summit, everything felt so distant that I felt that it wasn’t a great spot for photography. (That and lugging up camera gear up some dodgy sections). In the afternoon, the cloud settled in thickly so it was a night in for the first sunset that I didn’t shoot during the trip. Throughout the course of the day, I met three people staying the night with me. An elderly spritely man (Roger) and his son (Rohan) from Hobart and a well walked traveller from Canberra . We had easy conversations about various hikes before we all hit the sack pretty early. The weather forecast mentioned a possible break in the weather in the morning but sadly it would not hold true.
January 31st: Lake Tahune Cabin Fever
1200pm Weather has been terrible today and I don’t’ have much hope for any clearing this afternoon or even for dawn tomorrow. Fingers crossed the trip can finish on a high and I’ll be able to get some half decent shots to finish off!
230pm and it’s still misty as. Not actually looking like clearing. I’ve also just realised that Dan Broun was in the party I’m sharing the hut with!
930pm: I’ve just returned from a walk to the Lion’s Head and the walk started on a high note with rainbows , storms and the most defined clouds I’ve seen. After that it was a cat and mouse game with both the path and light. I ended up going too far along the path to Irenabyss and had to backtrack to climb up Lion’s head. Then, the light gods really let loose with light beaming all over historic Macquarie Harbour and the dense forest and scrub that lay before it. As soon as the light was done, so was I as I headed back down where two late stragglers arrived at 930pm. I’m debating a sleep in tomorrow morning since I doubt I’ll top the light from tonight’s efforts! Over and out, waterfall shooting tomorrow!
February 1st: Lake Tahune to North Hobart.
The last hut sleep was typically restless made worse by the fact that as was nodding off, someone’s alarm went off before 5am and we had to hunt for the appropriate phone to turn it off. The skies were covered but I still dragged myself out of bed and started the day witnessing some Tassie glory with the sun rising over Lake Tahune in glorious fashion. By the time I came down, everyone was busy getting ready to leave. Dan and three others were staying to hike while two of his party were heading out.
With a slightly lighter pack and 2 days relative rest, the morning felt really good. I didn’t need to have any stops en route to Barron Pass and paused only to take some phone shots to document the walk. On the way down to Lake Vera, I stopped to photograph 2 of the particularly pretty cascades while noting how tired I must have been on the ascent as it seemed nowhere near as long or challenging on the return leg. At least 7 walkers were heading up to a crowded Lake Tahune hut.
I stopped briefly for lunch at Lake Vera at 11am, 3 hours after leaving Tahune. There, I had a chat with two middle aged women from Brisbane who were just doing an out and back to Lake Vera. I guess they were in it for the walking experience as I felt the real value of the walk to be everything past Lake Vera! There on end it was a 3.5 hour slog to the carpark over 15km of undulating but mostly downhill terrain. I passed the father and son pair on the way and hope I get to see them again on the trail in the future.
I grew more weary as the hike went on , particularly as the head and sun grew more prominent , and the final 300m ascent up Mount Mullens nailed me! At least I could say a goodbye to Frenchmans Cap on a blue sky day. By the time I reached the car park, cleaned my feet, stowed the camping gear for good and drove to Derwent Bridge, it was an unexpectedly early 3pm.
A sausage roll and coke at the Hungry Wombat went down in record time after the day’s 22km March. Luke wasn’t due back in Hobart until after 9pm so I booked myself into Tower Motel in North Hobart. Surprisingly, with Lewis and Veronica chatting away on Triple J , I had no moments of sleepiness on the 2 hour return drive to Hobart.
On arrival, I found that the motel was one of the spots for Chinese group tours! No matter, it was clean, efficient and I managed to destink in an importantly high pressure shower! I then found a 4.7 star Malaysian café 1km down the road which would have been easy to miss since the storefront had no sign. $23 Char Kway Teow is a tad exorbitant but hey, hunger makes everything taste perfect! (ps. Apparently the name of the place is Myu Easy Bites.
Luke eventually replied to a text about shooting Boomer Bay the following morning. I was tempted to bail in order to get more sleep, but pfft, sleep can wait! I was up after 5 hours of sleep at 3am anyway so it made no difference. He arrived at the hotel at 4am and we were off to Boomer Bay for the end of the night.
February 2nd: Hobart to Home!
It was almost a relief when Luke agreed to call off shooting before actual dawn as the sky was clear and 20 boats were due in for a fishing competition at Boomer Bay. We headed to Salamanca for breakfast where several things happened in a hurry.
- I learned of the term ‘Dark Green’ used in a political sense
- Luke mentioned that he had been in contact with Climate Council regarding aerial documentation of the fires. Before we knew it, a few twitter messages later, 11am was the departure time on a chartered flight. We had to bail on Nick Monk who deserved to be on that flight much more than me as his investment in the Tasmanian wilderness is exponentially deeper than mine. He unfortunately could not risk missing the start of his performance in Les Miserables which I had planned to attend but had no time for!
The flight with Par Avion (https://www.facebook.com/paraviontas/) was again amazing, scary, educational and potentially even emotional. Coming along for the flight was landscape legend Rob Blakers whose Tassie images had always inspired me. Grant Dixon was also due but could not make it on short notice. I took a maxolon tablet 30 minutes pre-departure and it did wonders considering that I didn’t once feel like vomiting during the 2.5 hour flight (albeit the previous flight over the Arthurs in 2016 was far more turbulent).
Our path took us over the massive Gell River fire scar that encroached upon Lake Rhona and the Denison Range. We then swung around Lake Gordon and the southwest fires near Mount Anne before flying past some backburning operations near the Riveaux Road fire.
After the flight, we all paused for a debrief before Luke and I headed for lunch at the ‘Room for a Pony’; a well recommended place and overwhelmingly sized Nachos! After we said farewells, I stayed around for another hour finding some gifts for Marianne and the girls before heading to the airport. I found some coral earrings which in my mind matched some of the tops Marianne was wearing in recent times. The quality wasn’t particularly high but I hope a minimum gesture to show my gratitude was in order since her looking after the kids has allowed me to have probably the most productive week of photography in recent memory.
The car rental return , check in , flight, disembarking (after the smoothest landing I’ve experience in a while) , pick up, welcome hugs and then sleep in my own bed back in Adelaide went as well as I could possibly hope for.
End…. Oh and a sneak peek of 1 edited shot from each area I visited 🙂
I thought it might be interesting for those who hike a lot as well as those who don’t do much hiking to take a look at how I felt various pieces of equipment performed during our 6 day 5 night hike in the Western Arthurs. I’d say it was a pretty stern test for most pieces of gear as we experienced all sorts of conditions during that time. I’ll divide it into a few sections and I’d love to hear your comments if you’ve had more experience with a certain product or you want to know some more. Where products are currently available, I’ve tried to include links in case you’re looking!
- Berghaus Jacket : (too old to find a link) 9/10 . This black jacket has been with me for over 10 years now and is still going strong. Waterproof in light rain but as with other fancy jackets that claim 100% waterproof, it eventually does get wet when the rain persists for hours and comes in all different angles.
- Cheap rain pants ($20 from Rays): 5/10. They were super light and did a surprisingly good job at keeping out the water. I wore them over my hiking pants and gaiters . The 5/10 is because they were not at all durable and eventually ripped after snagging on a branch. I might look into some lightweight gortex alternatives eventually.
- Sea to summit Quagmire gaiters: 10/10. Can’t complain about these. Relatively light, did the job as best they could. Even when the buttons were clogged with mud and couldn’t snap shut, the velcro held out the moisture and mud .
- Salmon midcut boots: 9/10 : Remained waterproof throughout except when water came in from above. Awesomely comfortable for my wide feet. No blisters or even a hint of them despite some long days .
- Various beanies , gloves, neck warmers did fine. Nothing special about these that deserved mention nor a need for getting anything fancier than what I had.
Food and Food preparation
- Jetboil: 10/10. These are simply amazing for weight and convenience ‘if’ you are just preparing rehydrated meals. Not for anyone who actually likes to ‘cook’ while on the trek. This was never on the cards so it didn’t matter to me. 1 small sized gas cannister lasted the whole trip with some to spare. I used it for every lunch and every dinner on the track.
- Utensils: 1/10 I had some polycarbonate utensils that snapped early in the trip. Note to self : get some titanium ones for future treks. I brought a mug with me but really didn’t need to use it since I didn’t bring any hot drinks or soups as such!!
- Meals : 0-7/10. I went freeze dried meals for both lunches and dinners. Snowys outdoor store has them at a great price and free shipping around Australia. It was great for weight conservation, not good for the stomach. Overall, backcountry meals tasted OK and were easier on the stomach. For some reason, ‘outdoor gourmet’ brand tasted great but had terrible effects on my stomach causing diarrhoea on a few of the nights. At the end of a long day’s hike, I could easily finish a double serving for dinner (175g for backcountry or 195g for outdoor gourmet) but ended up giving some of my food to others where we were ‘base camping’ from a location. Mind you, I do only weigh 60kg. For convenience, you may wish to avoid meals which require opening two packets (often a second packet of mash). On future trips, I will be trying lunch wraps with packaged tuna and perhaps a box of rivita type biscuits with a tub of peanut butter . The BBQ pork I brought however, was amazing and I should have brought more than 2 packages for treats!
- Snacks: 7/10. I think it’s easy to overthink the snacks. Basically, bring what you’re going to eat and what you’re going to find palatable. I thought it would be a good idea to mix up M&Ms, raisins and nuts for trail mix. I ended up hating the nuts portion of it because guess what, I don’t snack on nuts at home. I wouldn’t worry about food groups too much for a trip of this duration , just make sure nothing goes to waste and the nuts did go to waste as I ate all around them in the end. Muesli Bars were great – I consumed about 2 a day on top of the 1kg of trail mix I brought. Just don’t bring anything crumbly or you’ll be sucking it out of the packets.
- Drinks : Water from flowing sources in the Tassie highlands was fine. I did bring a Sawyer filter system and used it when we were forced to camp at the top of Alpha Moraine on day 1 without any flowing water in sight. Filtering puddled water seemed a good strategy. I brought enough gatorade for 4L but wouldn’t do it again. There were times when I just wanted pure water and my nalgene 1L bottle was filled with gatorade. Unless of course you plan on bringing two water systems (which I didn’t : just a 1L bottle and 2L of sawyer fillable sachets for filtering). In the future, I’m going back to drinking pre-prepared milo/powdered milk/sugar combinations with meals.
** All up the meals and snacks weighed about 4kg**
- Pants: I found no role for softshell pants on their own for this trek. Though comfortable and relatively weather resistant, once wet, these weigh a ton and take forever to dry out and still need additional cover for extreme conditions. This was my experience from last years trip, so this year, I opted not to bring any and just hiked in regular hiking pants that had a zipoff option. This worked well for me. Camp shorts were useful for the warm day we had. Keeping a clean pair of thermals for the evenings was useful. Gross as this sounds, I only changed underpants every 2nd day but hey, the clean ones were only going to get soiled immediately yea??
- Tops: I’ve tried all sorts of stuff from merino to just simple sports running tops. For the conditions we were in, normal running T shirts did the job just fine. In fact, I just wore one the whole trip. Nothing fancy required. Merino stuff (I’ve found) just tends to rip with repeated use, and wearing it as a T shirt rather than a warming layer seems very cost ineffective to me. I also find they stink MORE when wet with my sweat (a personal oddity perhaps?). A thermal top for night time was also great. A mid layer is also good for the cooler days and while resting. I brought a down jacket but it never really got cold enough to require it so it was consigned to pillow duty at night.
- Other: I brought three pairs of explorer socks and like the jocks, changed them every 2nd day – often for pscyhological benefit. A pair of cheap crocs is useful for walking around campsites as well.
- How many sets of cloths? Too much! I actually brought 2 pairs of most things and ended up using one of everything I’ve mentioned above. That’s a fair bit of weight and space you’re saving. The second set ended up being used for the car ride home to feel clean but these could have been left in the car.
- Dry sacks: You want clothes to be 100% dry at the end of the day so despite the waterproofness of your bag, I’d still stuff clothes in a dry sack. Oh and reserve one for ‘that’ vomit inducing bag of soiled clothes that you’ll eventually have to rinse out on your return!
Pack / Tent / Sleeping
- One planet 80l Strezlecki backpack: 9/10. I’ve had this tank of a pack for the last 7 years now and have had no issues with its durability or waterproof-ness. Even in the horizontal rain from this trip, or drenching fiordland rain around Milford sound – the water simply does not penetrate despite hours of constant exposure (without a rain cover either). The only issue is that because of its toughness, it is fairly rigid and compared to the packs the other guys were carrying, there were far less options to attach gear on the exterior. My narrow waist means its always a challenge to find a pack with the right length yet be able to strap tightly enough around my waist to reduce the burden on my shoulders. This pack has done it the best of several I have tried.
- Hilleberg Nammatj2 : 9/10 Tank of a tent and withstood winds which I’m told were getting up to 80km gusts (possibly more?). Roomy inside for 2 and the vestibule is fairly large but can get filled quite easily with 2 occupants’ gear.
- Talus I sleeping bag with +8degree liner. 9/10 This was a good combination for me. The Talus weighs in at only 850g and combined with the liner, I was toasty and warm though the nights did not get below 5 degrees (I don’t think). I’m a very cold sleeper. I would need a warmer bag for colder conditions
- Sea to summit sleeping mat: 9/10: No issues at all with this. Before I started using these, I’d have restless nights sleep due to comfort. No longer! by 60kg bony frame does not touch the ground any more. The R value of the mat I was using was 3.3 – again more than adequate for the conditions we experienced.
- 5dmk4 : This was my main camera of the trip paired up with the 16-35 lens most of the time. This isn’t a camera review but rather how suitable it is for a multiday trek. Durability was no issue though I did not test it in serious moisture. The AF did very well for ‘on the go’ images. I went through 2 batteries during the trip (not right down to 0%) while firing off about 900 images. One thing that is very useful about the mk4 is the touch screen. I don’t feel like I have to use a remote when using the mk4 as even the slightest of glances will trigger the shutter and it can be used for bulb exposures.
- Sony A7r2 : I brought this along as Luke and Tim were both Sony users so it was good to have some redundancy. Since I brought it with me, I actually ended up using it quite a lot. For shoots after the first day, I was shooting with a 2 camera setup with each lens attached ready to go depending on whether I wanted a wide or telephoto style of image. To have this setup brings significant weight but I didn’t have any issue with carrying 25-28kg on my back for this trip so I would do the same for future trips. Despite not using it as much as the mk4 I still did go through 2 battery lifes for 400 shots. The convenience of the sony over the canon being that you can charge it directly and that if you’re using native lenses, it is a lighter setup.
- Gopro hero5: This was sturdy , provided great footage and I basically did not have to worry about it even any conditions. I’d bring it along for future trips without hesitation. The battery life went down to 50% a few times and was recharged without issue.
- Canon 16-35 F4L : Definitely bring a wide angle with you to the Arthurs. The F4 was even usuable for night images when paired with the 2 bodies I was using which had great high iso capability. AT 800+ grams, it’s quite a weight investment for the hike though.
- Canon 70-200 F4L : It’s personal choice as to whether you bring a mid range zoom like the 24-70 or 70-200 or a second lens at all! I used the 70-200 quite a bit and it gives many different opportunities for compressing planes and for images of people perched on ledges. I ‘d say bring the second lens only if photography is your primary priority for the trip. I’d have lived with just the wide angle though the 70-200F4 actually weighs less than the 16-35!
- Sirui K30x ballhead and N220 series tripod: These aren’t the lightest of tripods or combinations but they definitely did the job when the wind was blowing. Once again, how close you stick to your ‘normal’ set up depends on how high photography lies on your priority list when hiking in the wilderness. A sturdy tripod will be missed on a trip like this especially if you are planning on shooting long exposures.
- Nisi V5 pro and filters : To this point I have been more than happy with any Nisi product I have received. The V5pro holder is the sole exception. Unfortunately I received this very shortly before departure so its limitations came as a surprise on the trip. Once again, this post isn’t a photographic gear review as such so I will say that the holder itself is sturdy and more than capable of withstanding a wilderness trip. Just use the regular V5 if you’re a Nisi user. All up , my hard case and 5 filters I brought weighed close to a kilogram but it is my shooting style to use filters and I had accustomed myself to carry all of this gear. A rectangular slot-in filter kit could be foregone for simple screw on NDs if you want to do long exposures. For me, my regular set up is worth its weight in order to get the best out of the scenery photographically.
- Aquapac Stormproof : I used this case as a ‘front pack’ strapped on to my backpack straps with carabiners. This worked quite well for me (even if a little squeaky at times). I had no concerns with moisture infiltration as the case is pretty well described by its name. Ergonomically though, it’s not the easiest thing in the world to stuff a DSLR + UWA along with a second lens. Getting things in and out could be a little frustrating.
- Other camera accessories: Along with the filters, a few other odds and ends were stored in a waist pouch which sat on my hips attached to a waist belt. Inside the case were a ziplock bag of Kim wipes (highly recommended and easily obtainable from any friend you might have working in health care or science!), an air blower, a hahnel remote for the sony, a second neck warmer to use as a blackout tool for long exposures, 5 canon spare batteries and 3 sony spare batteries. I brought a rain cover which I never had to use.
- Headlamp : I used a pretty standard Kathmandu headlamp. Nothing exciting to say here.
- Charger: Xiaomi make an awesome 16000mah charger. During this trip, I charged 2 sony batteries, my go pro a few times and my phone to some degree every day and it still read 2/4 bars. This is a good weight investment if you need it for those purposes.
- Mobile phone /GPS : I had a Samsung galaxy 7 with Avenza and view ranger apps installed. Both worked fine on a previous trip to Canada but for some reason, the location finder chose not to work on this trip??? This made solo trips on my first visit more risky and I was disappointed that this did not work as intended. It now seems to be back working since I’ve come home? I’ll have to find out why it didn’t work during the last trip before I can take in confidence anywhere as my sole navigational device.
- My Garmin forerunner 235 watch went for the whole trip without needing a charge (though I did not record any activities).
- Toiletries : Normal toothpaste and toothbrush were fine though I did worry if the toothbrush was going to snap like my cutlery. I brought a whole toilet roll and used 2/3 of it (with several nights of diarrhoea mind you). For this trip, I successfully controlled my pace not to sweat too much so I didn’t feel like i missed having the option of getting clean with wipes but I did see the other guys using them regularly.
- Sunscreen is essential . I bought one which was a combined insect repellant and did not come away with any insect bites for the whole trip? I think that’s got to be a first!
- A small bottle of alcohol hand gel can serve two purposes. The first is for cleanliness around food preparation. The second, is to use any leftovers at the end of the trip to wipe down feet/socks and boot interiors with . I’ve found this to be a fantastic deodourising strategy , particularly if a plane flight or bus ride is coming up!
- Map and Compass should be part of anyone’s kit over and above the electronic equipment.
- PLB. We had three of these in our group and there was only one occasion where I borrowed one when going shooting alone. It’s advisable to have at least 1 between 2 on a trip like this I would think.
So there you have it ! Pretty much everything that I had on my back or wore during the trip. Your thoughts would be appreciated 😉
This January, I had the good fortune to hike part of the Western Arthurs Traverse with Luke Tscharke, Tim Wrate and Francois Fourie. This was a trip that we had planned for last year but had to pull out due to the bushfires preventing access to the trailhead. The weather gods this year did smile upon us at times and we all head a great trip. In all, we spent 6 days and 5 nights on the trail and experienced just about everything we could have hoped for. This is an ‘adapted’ version of the diary I kept while on the track.
Saturday : 21st Jan :
Hobart’s as beautiful as ever but there’s some strange connection between my arrival here and fatal hit and run incidents. Last year, a woman and her unborn child, this year 6 dead as a result of a crazed driver hurtling through Bourke Street. I’m in a better frame of mind thanks to a far lesser state of anxiety from Marianne and a happy farewell. I was sad to be leaving Charlotte’s affections while it was hard to feel the same about screaming Jaime as I left for work that morning. Ah the terrible twos. QANTAS really do need to get their act together. Nearly all of their flights were delayed or late as I listened to announcement after announcement in at the boarding gates. The rest of the process though, was smooth and thanks for Francois’ hospitality, I spent the night resting up here in Hobart before hitting the trail. Marianne predicted 130,000 steps for the week but I thought it could have been more!
Monday 23rd January
(Written in retrospect and also some parts added in after the trip)
Reviewing the last 3 days will be difficult to put to paper as the expectations of the hike are just too incredible. Last year , I wrote an article for Australian Photography Magazine about managing expectations (which will be published in April). So this year, as we were headed in, I’m not sure whether it was a defence mechanism on my part to play down expectations or whether I was distracted ; but there wasn’t the same degree of hype.
Luke & Tim were waiting for us with their massive bags undoubtedly full of post trek comforts I wish I had packed . With all things jammed in the rear of Francois’ car, we headed for the trailhead in somewhat grey conditions and stopped at New Norfolk Banjos for morning tea and a lunch pickup. This seems to have become a routine for us in the last two years! Getting past the town of Maydena was a huge psychological relief as that was where our literal roadblock form last year lay. Once we were at Scott’s Peak Dam, it was hard to gauge what the Arthurs would ultimately look like as we knew we had hours of scrub and mud to squelch through before the plains opened up for views of the range. Two people who had just completed the full traverse looked reassuringly ‘not that muddy’. Famous last words!
The first hour of walking saw little in the way of mud but for the next two, approaching and beyond Junction Creek, it was pretty foul stuff to get through. Keep your head down and walk, you just had to. Most of the decisions to be made were around going through the middle or attempting to skirt around the puddles and bog. Both ended up in many a foot, knee and even hip into the mud. Not the most pleasant of experiences and the mud would never truly leave the equation for the rest of the trip.
Our walking time was 1315 to 1600 to Junction Creek. After the plains slog and a short unintentional detour off route, we arrived at the base of Alpha Moraine at 550pm. We decided to push for the top of the range that evening and while I didn’t sweat much , it still took a lot of energy to get there at 745 pm for ‘no light’ as a reward. We couldn’t look far for camping spots as light was fading by the time Tim and Luke arrived at 830pm. The wind was also picking up at our relatively exposed camp site. I thought I would sleep a welcome sleep of the dead, but it wasn’t to be; yet another restless and sleepless camp night after the first of many freeze dried meals cooked in the vestibule of our tent.
The morning looked grey as I peered out of our tent, but I was keen to head for Mount Hesperus. The others were initially more keen to take it easy after the previous day’s slog, and given that my phone GPS failed, I was not keen to roll the dice on getting lost in the mist covering unknown terrain. Now that I’ve walked the terrain, I’d have had a little more confidence in doing so. The light ended up being absolutely beautiful but I was in no position to shoot the peak of it. Ironically, the light was best seen from closer to the camp site. Nonetheless, we all still captured a stunning introduction to the range.
The rest of the day was spent making our way up and down toward the saddle between Mount Sirius and Orion. As we did this , we passed Lake Fortuna in the mist, and Lake Cygnus which were both remarkable spots on their own but for the waiting jewel of the range in Lake Oberon beyond. Climbing up and down Mount Hayes was a challenge , particularly one section of steep scree. Our aim was to have lunch at Square Lake past Procyon Peak. We thought we would be there on a few deflating occasions , only to be led to another ascent and descent en route. When we finally did get to Square Lake, we stopped for an hour’s lunch and napped on the rocks in bright sunshine. It was there that I ate my infamous Kung Pao chicken meal.
Following our sunbaked snooze, we gathered water from Square Lake’s outlet creek and headed to the pass above Lake Oberon. The uphill was surprisingly short , taking only 30 minutes or so. Francois and I then darted off to take a look at the famous entrance to Oberon and its numerous Pandani. We believe that we found the 3 pandani made famous by the late Peter Dombrovskis and for personal reasons, I opted not to take an image here.
After pitching tent and relaxing , the late afternoon and evening blue sky shoot was from Mount Sirius and Square Lake. Despite plain skies, it was such a beautiful evening and we knew we wouldn’t get much sleep due to astro conditions being on offer. The milky way was predicted to rise at around 230am.
Quadrantic: Beautiful evening light illuminates the quarzite peaks of Mount Procyon and Mount Hayes in the background. Luke Tscharke is seen in the mid ground as well as two tents along the shores of Square Lake for scale.
Sleepless while waiting for the stars is one thing, sleepless because of Kung Pao diarrhoea is another (or was it the Beef Bourginon???). Explosive diarrhoea all night including an effort at the Oberon entrance was not a pretty sight and left me drained for the rest of the day. Luke, Francois and I shot some astro frames before meandering along the numerous intersecting paths offering views of Oberon with pandani in the foreground. It was a magical kind of dawn and morning as we watched moonrise, milkyway rise and then sunrise within a few hours and I’m hoping the images represent my wonderful memories from that morning (health issues aside) . Following breakfast, it was yet another jaunt up to Mount Sirius to catch receding shadows of Mount Pegasus on the Lake. I think we had more photographic success from up here again.
After breaking camp, we bumped into two very seasoned brothers who were 100% gristle and sinew and knew the path probably better than anyone. They gave us some pointers while we listened and soaked in the experience. Then, it was time for the famous descent into Lake Oberon.
Honestly speaking, some may make light of it , but I had never done anything quite like this before. It really was rock climbing for 30-50m of the trail where false moves could have resulted in serious injury. Nonetheless, we all made it down (several times during the next few days) without incident. On arrival to the camp site, the weather was balmy but expected to turn. With that in mind, we all took a cleansing dip in the freezing waters of Oberon while getting ourselves refreshed. A quick afternoon nap came and went and the weather began to look inclement.
Francois and I tried to head up Mount Pegasus before dinner but I chickened out at the sight of ascending fairly smooth and sheer exposed rock faces. I feared with my 2 hours of sleep that coordination might not be at my strongest. I earned a new respect for those who continue on to do the whole traverse with heavy packs on.
We all settled down to use our phones at a tarn just above the campsite which still strikes as being odd. Yes , the weather forecast is helpful but the sight of four walkers sitting down staring at their phones seems kind of like an antithesis. After dinner, there was no opportunity for photography as strong winds, then heavy rain set in and did not let up. By 8pm , I was asleep in bed and having the best camp sleep I had ever had.
6am : no sunrise , steady rain and we were getting battered by wind. To pee or not to pee, that was the question ……bladder wins out and an opportunity to refix a few stray guy lines.
8am: everyone decided to skip breakfast and stay asleep. A good call as the buffeting continued. it was good opportunity to catch up with diary writing.
1pm. Finally we ventured out of our tents for lunch and inspected the sogginess of our beach /mud camp. In retrospect, it wasn’t the best idea given the rain would predictably transform the sand into a boggy morass. After lunch, more snoozing as the rain continued but finally by about 4pm, it relented! I decided to go walking to the tarn for some attempted long exposures while Luke shot the various streams around the base which are clearly visible from above.
730pm: After an early dinner, I decided that I would go up for sunset on the saddle given that there were patches of blue sky. What a grand decision that ended up being as I made the ascent in surprisingly short time (20 minutes). I was greeted by blazing pre-sunset light and shot this from halfway up Mount Orion before heading to the Pandani forest overlooking Oberon. The sunset eventually petered out and as I was heading back to the trail, I bumped into Luke and Tim who had decided to come up after me. Together we went down in the dark with safety in numbers. The only incident being Tim’s shoe getting wedged between a root and rock necessitating some extraction. That night, sleep did not come at all which wasn’t surprising given that I had slept 18 of the last 24 hours.
A keen 430am awakening to the sound of our alarms and we set ourselves to climb up for one more view of Lake Oberon. Each time we did the climb I felt that it had become more instinctive and less of a risk. The conditions themselves looked promising and ended up delivering in rays of golden light! So much so , that we hung around shooting well after peak light. It was one of those mornings where you start to pack it all in with satisfaction, and then even more light happened. In a small cove of pandani, it was difficult not to get in each other’s way but I think we managed to do it well enough. A few selfies later, many SD cards later and we were headed back to camp quite satisfied with what we had achieved. We even dared to dream about other epic shots for the rest of the trip that would unfortunately never eventuate.
Packing up the tents was messy business that morning as the waterlogged bog of a beach had infiltrated all of our gear. Even Tim’s tank of a tent suffered some minor tent pole damaged from the high winds. The climb out from Oberon was a last hurrah and a fitting farewell to an epic location. Timelapsed selfies were done and the plans adjusted to Lake Cygnus for lunch.
Though we thought we were prepared for all the ups and downs, there were still seemingly more than we thought. At the top of our ascent out of Oberon, the weather started to turn a little funky. By the time of the ascent to Mount Hayes and its scree slopes, it was nearly 2pm and we thought that we’d have arrived at Cygnus already. That last section dragged on and the weather forecast was poor, so we pushed on to pitch tent at Cygnus. Along the way, a father-son duo and pretty clueless French dude were the only other walkers we saw on the trail.
When we arrived at Lake Cygnus, Francois ducked off and discovered the cache of beer he had hidden a year ago when he did the trek with Ben Wilkinson! Legend! If only I actually drank beer, the moment would have been even more momentous. The plan was to spend the next 2 nights here and wait out bad weather for a walk out on Friday. The site was pleasant enough with matted floors but a few things conspired against us.
- Weather : this turned foul late afternoon to the point of whiteout at dinner time. Luke returned from a search for a Dombrovskis composition overlooking Mount Hayes and was soaked through.
- Toilets: F*@*#@me ! overflowing and with maggots no less.
- Poor calculation: It was going to be fairly unrealistic to leave after sunrise on Friday and still make it back to have Francois meet his promise to Erin to be at the Hobart beerfest by 5pm.
Dinner was had in our vestibules where we narrowly dodged a gas cannister explosion. For an awkward few seconds we just watched the fire slowly recede around the cannister kind of just hoping it wouldn’t escalate. Sleep actually came fast until the diarrhoea arrived again at 1030pm. It was near whiteout conditions outside and I began to frantically search for a spot to dump since I knew I wouldn’t make it to ‘that’ disgusting toilet on time. So much for eco camping – I ended up having to dig a hole just off the path and hope it wouldn’t contaminate the water source. I suspect the French dude we bumped into , whose tent was adjacent to ours, may have heard some interesting sounds. Fortunately this was a once off and I did sleep the rest of the night.
We awoke to greyness and showers. This consolidated a last minute decision to head out one day early and it was a good one. After having some sips of my beer and sharing the rest around, we broke camp and prepared for a long hike out. We calculated 8 hours on the trail and our start was delayed by a Luke toilet call, in ‘that’ toilet.
For the ridge sections, we battled horizontal wind and rain the whole time with no visibility whatsoever. So much for epic views from atop Mount Hesperus! Luke still managed to stop for some photos though in those conditions, the sony was proving its liability in damp conditions. We were glad to reach the leeward side of the mountain for the 750m descent down Alpha Moraine. Tim and Luke’s bulging knees held up but not Tim’s already torn boots.
Alpha Moraine was a soul destroyer on the way up and to a lesser degree on the descent. It did require constant concentration not only to negotiate drops , but the ever present mud. On the way down there were passing showers and light typical of our whole time on the range. Francois, Tim and I managed the descent in 75 minutes and waited a good 30 minutes for Luke before deciding on lunch at Junction Creek only 3km away. The Aus Geo article should have some pretty good passing light from that descent. As predicted, the track was a boggy stream which worsened on the approach to Junction Creek. Thanks to Tim’s steam train efforts, we made rapid time to the campsite in 45m minutes where we had our last freeze dried fill of food for the trip. HOORRRAYAY. Luke arrived at camp a little while later and after lunch we were off again on our last leg! The weather down below had warmed significantly so I ended up leaving waterproofs only below but hiking in a T shirt.
Our approach for this boggy section was simple. Mud in the way? Bash right through it! This did make things easier to the point that the last 10km went by in 2.5 hours. This included a waist deep episode for Francois and three false ends in forests that were morale sapping. Tim and Luke were only 30 minutes behind for this leg. Along the way, we met a few parties heading out on Australia day. A guided group of 4 led by the same guide we met on the ferry out from the Overland Track last year. He was leading Hobart photographer Sohee Kim to Lake Oberon. There was an ill prepared trio with no gaiters ! I’m sure their feet were suffering from each sucking step threatening to pull their boots off. Finally a solo traverser who gave us an indication that we were only 1 hour from the car.
When the end finally came, it was sweet! Our gear was scattered, my excess weight in fresh clothes was put to good use and overall, we felt just that much more human. 100,000 steps and 1400 storeys of climbing, 1300 photographs and a few hours of footage concluded here. The 3 hour drive back was rewarded with pizza, soft drink and a 5 minute shower before crashing into a mattressed bed. END
I’ll remember this trip with fondness for a long time. The group banter, the quality tent time, the wild, changeable, beautiful and horrendous weather, the amazing views of grand and prehistoric scenery, the f@#$ explosive diarrhoea, the sore shoulders, the fatigued legs, the scoparia riddled cuts. It was ALL worth it and I’d love to do it again ( and again) in the future! It might even be worth hiding a cache of beer up there again 🙂