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Sunshine in winter

For the last two years now, we’ve headed up to Queensland to escape the Adelaide winter (not that it’s that severe). Each time, we’ve been blessed with variable conditions. This year’s trip was an extended family trip to the Sunshine Coast where we were based in Tewantin. This made it a great base to explore Noosa Heads National Park in particular. I’ll explain the rationale behind some of the images from each location.

Day 1: Morning at Dolphin Rock.

The reason I wanted to visit this location was due to its influence on my early photographic ‘career’. I had seen numerous images of this rock at Point Cartwright by flickr contacts and wanted to see it for myself. Given how short our trip was, I had no option to plan appropriate tides so I really had to deal with what I was given. Thanks to rough directions from Brisbane photographer Martin Canning, I was able to find the rock very quickly after parking the car at the nearby lighthouse car park. The timelapse below shows an advancing tide with the evolution of light. My aim was to capture dynamic motion flowing over the rocks and eventually, to capture a sunstar image based on the ‘tip’ of the dolphin’s nose. I managed to catch up with long time flickr friend Adam Randell here as well.

Sunstar over Dolphin Rock at Point Cartwright

Day 1: Raining light at Noosa heads

On our first evening, we walked to the first cove along the coastal trail at Noosa Heads national park. While we were exploring the area looking for crabs and other wildlife with the kids, I spotted a group of rocks which I thought might light up well at sunset. As a downpour occurred which sent the rest of the family running for cover, the area was lit in a haze of orange and gold which I tried to capture with my hastily scouted foreground elements.  Due to the rain, I shot most of these images without filters and gave the kim wipes a great workout to keep the shots clean! Unfortunately, this was the last shoot with my Sony A7r2 as I fell in the water with it 😦 . I met Stephen Waller by chance here as well .

Light breaking through rain and clouds

The last series of shots before camera death!

Day 2: Smooth Granite

On the following morning, I was on a bit of a downer as the camera had not managed to revive itself overnight. Nonetheless, I did bring two bodies on this trip (1 for timelapses). My goal for this particular morning was to scout the coastline along the northern shores of the national park. The tide was high which restricted many opportunities but I settled for photographing the smooth granite boulders at the appropriately named Granite Bay. There wasn’t much light on offer due to thick bank of cloud on the horizon but an after dawn, the sun finally made its appearance. I wanted to capture a long exposure with accentuation of the foreground rock patterns leading toward the tall granite boulder. This was best achieved as wide as possible using the Laowa 12mm lens. I also wanted to capture golden light falling upon the rocks but during a long exposure, I would have been very limited by the huge dynamic range involved with attempting this as a single capture. I therefore blended the long exposure shot with a few shorter exposures for the light on the rocks taken without any filters on.

After I had finished shooting at Granite Bay, I did some scouting for potential evening shoot locations. I decided to take some travel oriented shots of the many surfers at Tea Tree Bay enjoying the beautiful winter sunshine.

A blend of several long and short exposures to accentuate the smooth textures and light. Long exposure taken with 10 stop ND filter.

Image with ND filter on the left for smooth skies and water. Image without filters on the right for the light on the rocks

Tea Tree Bay in the early morning

Day 2: Suburban Forests at Buderim

During the day, we took the kids for an easy rainforest walk to the base of the waterfalls at Buderim . We found it remarkable that such lush scenery could be in very close proximity to surburbia. There had not been much rain in the preceding week, hence the waterfall was barely flowing. I noticed light falling upon a fern in front of the waterfall and set out to photograph the scene with the fern framing the waterfall. It was quite difficult to obtain this perspective and I ended up having to take my ballhead off the tripod and wedge it on to a rock to keep it steady while taking these 0.3 to 0.5 second exposures. The morning made for a great family outing with relatively easy access. Thereafter, the kids had fun at the Ginger factory before we returned home for Jaime’s (our 3 year old) nap.

Serenity Falls at Buderim Forest.

A video of the girls fun activities in Noosa.

Day 2: Reflections from Tea Tree Bay

This set of rock pools caught my eye as I was walking back from the morning shoot, so I had an easy destination to head toward in the evening. It was fortunate that I had scouted the position earlier in the day as I nearly missed sunset due to the parking madness at the National Park on a Sunday evening. Fortunately , after stalking some departing surfers, I was able to find a park and dash off to Tea Tree Bay. For the earlier image (middle) I had set up to photograph a focus stack with foreground rock and sky frames. While waiting for the light to evolve however, I found more appealing shapes in the same area and photographed those instead. Unfortunately, in the rush of moving around, I did not focus stack so there are some soft elements to the very immediate foreground.

Portraits of the light at Tea Tree Bay

Day 3: Paradise undiscovered

This was to be my last morning of shooting on the trip. I had read about some caves along the Eastern Beaches but knew it might be a little dicey to reach them since I had not scouted the area and would be approaching in the dark. After a couple of false trails leading to cliff faces, I found my way down to the shoreline north of Alexandra Beach and looked around in the dark for the caves. It turns out that one of my false trails in the dark was actually the right trail ! Next time i’ll know where to go to get into the caves proper but for this particular morning, I kept the shoot relatively dry and watched as a grey dawn turn gold yet again once the sun peeked through. All in all, it was a great short break which I found very refreshing since Noosa is a much more relaxed part of the world than the Gold Coast. In between family outings, most of the coastal locations were relatively to access with lots of different possibilities at dawn and dusk. Hopefully , we will return in the future!

The waves can really crash hard at this location – I chose to play it safe having already lost one body for the trip.

Long exposure panorama of the churning coastline at Paradise Caves (to the left of frame)

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Western Arthurs Gear List and Review

I thought it might be interesting for those who hike a lot as well as those who don’t do much hiking to take a look at how I felt various pieces of equipment performed during our 6 day 5 night hike in the Western Arthurs. I’d say it was a pretty stern test for most pieces of gear as we experienced all sorts of conditions during that time. I’ll divide it into a few sections and I’d love to hear your comments if you’ve had more experience with a certain product or you want to know some more. Where products are currently available, I’ve tried to include links in case you’re looking!

Outer Gear

  1. Berghaus Jacket : (too old to find a link) 9/10 . This black jacket has been with me for over 10 years now and is still going strong. Waterproof in light rain but as with other fancy jackets that claim 100% waterproof, it eventually does get wet when the rain persists for hours and comes in all different angles.
  2. Cheap rain pants ($20 from Rays): 5/10. They were super light and did a surprisingly good job at keeping out the water. I wore them over my hiking pants and gaiters . The 5/10 is because they were not at all durable and eventually ripped after snagging on a branch. I might look into some lightweight gortex alternatives eventually.
  3. Sea to summit Quagmire gaiters: 10/10. Can’t complain about these. Relatively light, did the job as best they could. Even when the buttons were clogged with mud and couldn’t snap shut, the velcro held out the moisture and mud .
  4. Salmon midcut boots: 9/10 : Remained waterproof throughout except when water came in from above. Awesomely comfortable for my wide feet. No blisters or even a hint of them despite some long days .
  5. Various beanies , gloves, neck warmers did fine. Nothing special about these that deserved mention nor a need for getting anything fancier than what I had.

Food and Food preparation

  1. Jetboil: 10/10. These are simply amazing for weight and convenience ‘if’ you are just preparing rehydrated meals. Not for anyone who actually likes to ‘cook’ while on the trek. This was never on the cards so it didn’t matter to me. 1 small sized gas cannister lasted the whole trip with some to spare. I used it for every lunch and every dinner on the track.
  2. Utensils: 1/10 I had some polycarbonate utensils that snapped early in the trip. Note to self : get some titanium ones for future treks. I brought a mug with me but really didn’t need to use it since I didn’t bring any hot drinks or soups as such!!
  3. Meals : 0-7/10. I went freeze dried meals for both lunches and dinners. Snowys outdoor store has them at a great price and free shipping around Australia.  It was great for weight conservation, not good for the stomach. Overall, backcountry meals tasted OK and were easier on the stomach. For some reason, ‘outdoor gourmet’ brand tasted great but had terrible effects on my stomach causing diarrhoea on a few of the nights. At the end of a long day’s hike, I could easily finish a double serving for dinner (175g for backcountry or 195g for outdoor gourmet) but ended up giving some of my food to others where we were ‘base camping’ from a location. Mind you, I do only weigh 60kg. For convenience, you may wish to avoid meals which require opening two packets (often a second packet of mash). On future trips, I will be trying lunch wraps with packaged tuna and perhaps a box of rivita type biscuits with a tub of peanut butter . The BBQ pork I brought however, was amazing and I should have brought more than 2 packages for treats!
  4. Snacks: 7/10. I think it’s easy to overthink the snacks. Basically, bring what you’re going to eat and what you’re going to find palatable. I thought it would be a good idea to mix up M&Ms, raisins and nuts for trail mix. I ended up hating the nuts portion of it because guess what, I don’t snack on nuts at home. I wouldn’t worry about food groups too much for a trip of this duration , just make sure nothing goes to waste and the nuts did go to waste as I ate all around them in the end. Muesli Bars were great – I consumed about 2 a day on top of the 1kg of trail mix I brought. Just don’t bring anything crumbly or you’ll be sucking it out of the packets.
  5. Drinks : Water from flowing sources in the Tassie highlands was fine. I did bring a Sawyer filter system and used it when we were forced to camp at the top of Alpha Moraine on day 1 without any flowing water in sight. Filtering puddled water seemed a good strategy. I brought enough gatorade for 4L but wouldn’t do it again. There were times when I just wanted pure water and my nalgene 1L bottle was filled with gatorade. Unless of course you plan on bringing two water systems (which I didn’t : just a 1L bottle and 2L of sawyer fillable sachets for filtering). In the future, I’m going back to drinking pre-prepared milo/powdered milk/sugar combinations with meals.

** All up the meals and snacks weighed about 4kg**

Clothing:

  1. Pants: I found no role for softshell pants on their own for this trek. Though comfortable and relatively weather resistant, once wet, these weigh a ton and take forever to dry out and still need additional cover for extreme conditions. This was my experience from last years trip, so this year, I opted not to bring any and just hiked in regular hiking pants that had a zipoff option. This worked well for me. Camp shorts were useful for the warm day we had. Keeping a clean pair of thermals for the evenings was useful. Gross as this sounds, I only changed underpants every 2nd day but hey, the clean ones were only going to get soiled immediately yea??
  2. Tops: I’ve tried all sorts of stuff from merino to just simple sports running tops. For the conditions we were in, normal running T shirts did the job just fine. In fact, I just wore one the whole trip. Nothing fancy required. Merino stuff (I’ve found) just tends to rip with repeated use, and wearing it as a T shirt rather than a warming layer seems very cost ineffective to me. I also find they stink MORE when wet with my sweat (a personal oddity perhaps?). A thermal top for night time was also great. A mid layer is also good for the cooler days and while resting. I brought a down jacket but it never really got cold enough to require it so it was consigned to pillow duty at night.
  3. Other: I brought three pairs of explorer socks and like the jocks, changed them every 2nd day – often for pscyhological benefit.  A pair of cheap crocs is useful for walking around campsites as well.
  4. How many sets of cloths? Too much! I actually brought 2 pairs of most things and ended up using one of everything I’ve mentioned above. That’s a fair bit of weight and space you’re saving. The second set ended up being used for the car ride home to feel clean but these could have been left in the car.
  5. Dry sacks: You want clothes to be 100% dry at the end of the day so despite the waterproofness of your bag, I’d still stuff clothes in a dry sack. Oh and reserve one for ‘that’ vomit inducing bag of soiled clothes that you’ll eventually have to rinse out on your return!

Pack / Tent / Sleeping

  1. One planet 80l Strezlecki backpack: 9/10. I’ve had this tank of a pack for the last 7 years now and have had no issues with its durability or waterproof-ness. Even in the horizontal rain from this trip, or drenching fiordland rain around Milford sound – the water simply does not penetrate despite hours of constant exposure (without a rain cover either).  The only issue is that because of its toughness, it is fairly rigid and compared to the packs the other guys were carrying, there were far less options to attach gear on the exterior. My narrow waist means its always a challenge to find a pack with the right length yet be able to strap tightly enough around my waist to reduce the burden on my shoulders. This pack has done it the best of several I have tried.
  2. Hilleberg Nammatj2 : 9/10  Tank of a tent and withstood winds which I’m told were getting up to 80km gusts (possibly more?). Roomy inside for 2 and the vestibule is fairly large but can get filled quite easily with 2 occupants’ gear.
  3. Talus I sleeping bag with +8degree liner. 9/10 This was a good combination for me. The Talus weighs in at only 850g and combined with the liner, I was toasty and warm though the nights did not get below 5 degrees (I don’t think). I’m a very cold sleeper. I would need a warmer bag for colder conditions
  4. Sea to summit sleeping mat: 9/10: No issues at all with this. Before I started using these, I’d have restless nights sleep due to comfort. No longer! by 60kg bony frame does not touch the ground any more. The R value of the mat I was using was 3.3 – again more than adequate for the conditions we experienced.

Camera Gear

  1. 5dmk4 : This was my main camera of the trip paired up with the 16-35 lens most of the time. This isn’t a camera review but rather how suitable it is for a multiday trek. Durability was no issue though I did not test it in serious moisture. The AF did very well for ‘on the go’ images. I went through 2 batteries during the trip (not right down to 0%)  while firing off about 900 images. One thing that is very useful about the mk4 is the touch screen. I don’t feel like I have to use a remote when using the mk4 as even the slightest of glances will trigger the shutter and it can be used for bulb exposures.
  2. Sony A7r2 : I brought this along as Luke and Tim were both Sony users so it was good to have some redundancy. Since I brought it with me, I actually ended up using it quite a lot. For shoots after the first day, I was shooting with a 2 camera setup with each lens attached ready to go depending on whether I wanted a wide or telephoto style of image. To have this setup brings significant weight but I didn’t have any issue with carrying 25-28kg on my back for this trip so I would do the same for future trips. Despite not using it as much as the mk4 I still did go through 2 battery lifes for 400 shots. The convenience of the sony over the canon being that you can charge it directly and that if you’re using native lenses, it is a lighter setup.
  3. Gopro hero5: This was sturdy , provided great footage and I basically did not have to worry about it even any conditions. I’d bring it along for future trips without hesitation. The battery life went down to 50% a few times and was recharged without issue.
  4. Canon 16-35 F4L : Definitely bring a wide angle with you to the Arthurs. The F4 was even usuable for night images when paired with the 2 bodies I was using which had great high iso capability. AT 800+ grams, it’s quite a weight investment for the hike though.
  5. Canon 70-200 F4L : It’s personal choice as to whether you bring a mid range zoom like the 24-70 or 70-200 or a second lens at all! I used the 70-200 quite a bit and it gives many different opportunities for compressing planes and for images of people perched on ledges. I ‘d say bring the second lens only if photography is your primary priority for the trip. I’d have lived with just the wide angle though the 70-200F4 actually weighs less than the 16-35!
  6. Sirui K30x ballhead and N220 series tripod: These aren’t the lightest of tripods or combinations but they definitely did the job when the wind was blowing. Once again, how close you stick to your ‘normal’ set up depends on how high photography lies on your priority list when hiking in the wilderness. A sturdy tripod will be missed on a trip like this especially if you are planning on shooting long exposures.
  7. Nisi V5 pro and filters : To this point I have been more than happy with any Nisi product I have received. The V5pro holder is the sole exception. Unfortunately I received this very shortly before departure so its limitations came as a surprise on the trip. Once again, this post isn’t a photographic gear review as such so I will say that the holder itself is sturdy and more than capable of withstanding a wilderness trip. Just use the regular V5 if you’re a Nisi user.  All up , my hard case and 5 filters I brought weighed close to a kilogram but it is my shooting style to use filters and I had accustomed myself to carry all of this gear. A rectangular slot-in filter kit could be foregone for simple screw on NDs if you want to do long exposures. For me, my regular set up is worth its weight in order to get the best out of the scenery photographically.
  8. Aquapac Stormproof : I used this case as a ‘front pack’ strapped on to my backpack straps with carabiners. This worked quite well for me (even if a little squeaky at times). I had no concerns with moisture infiltration as the case is pretty well described by its name. Ergonomically though, it’s not the easiest thing in the world to stuff a DSLR + UWA along with a second lens. Getting things in and out could be a little frustrating.
  9. Other camera accessories: Along with the filters, a few other odds and ends were stored in a waist pouch which sat on my hips attached to a waist belt. Inside the case were a ziplock bag of Kim wipes (highly recommended and easily obtainable from any friend you might have working in health care or science!), an air blower, a hahnel remote for the sony, a second neck warmer to use as a blackout tool for long exposures, 5 canon spare batteries and 3 sony spare batteries. I brought a rain cover which I never had to use.
The 16-35mm F4 lens gives a great sunstar - if you happen to see the sun!

The 16-35mm F4 lens gives a great sunstar – if you happen to see the sun!

Layers of mountain shaped by wind and time. Taken with the 70-200

Layers of mountain shaped by wind and time. Taken with the 70-200

Other Electronic

  1. Headlamp : I  used a pretty standard Kathmandu headlamp. Nothing exciting to say here.
  2. Charger: Xiaomi make an awesome 16000mah charger. During this trip, I charged 2 sony batteries, my go pro a few times and my phone to some degree every day and it still read 2/4 bars. This is a good weight investment if you need it for those purposes.
  3. Mobile phone /GPS : I had a Samsung galaxy 7 with Avenza and view ranger apps installed. Both worked fine on a previous trip to Canada but for some reason, the location finder chose not to work on this trip??? This made solo trips on my first visit more risky and I was disappointed that this did not work as intended. It now seems to be back working since I’ve come home? I’ll have to find out why it didn’t work during the last trip before I can take in confidence anywhere as my sole navigational device.
  4. My Garmin forerunner 235 watch went for the whole trip without needing a charge (though I did not record any activities).
I didn't get to wander up to Mount Hesperus due to phone GPS failure

I didn’t get to wander up to Mount Hesperus due to phone GPS failure

Personal/Safety

  1. Toiletries : Normal toothpaste and toothbrush were fine though I did worry if the toothbrush was going to snap like my cutlery. I brought a whole toilet roll and used 2/3 of it (with several nights of diarrhoea mind you). For this trip, I successfully controlled my pace not to sweat too much so I didn’t feel like i missed having the option of getting clean with wipes but I did see the other guys using them regularly.
  2. Sunscreen is essential  . I bought one which was a combined insect repellant and did not come away with any insect bites for the whole trip? I think that’s got to be a first!
  3. A small bottle of alcohol hand gel can serve two purposes. The first is for cleanliness around food preparation. The second, is to use any leftovers at the end of the trip to wipe down feet/socks and boot interiors with . I’ve found this to be a fantastic deodourising strategy , particularly if a plane flight or bus ride is coming up!
  4. Map and Compass should be part of anyone’s kit over and above the electronic equipment.
  5. PLB. We had three of these in our group and there was only one occasion where I borrowed one when going shooting alone. It’s advisable to have at least 1 between 2 on a trip like this I would think.

So there you have it ! Pretty much everything that I had on my back or wore during the trip. Your thoughts would be appreciated 😉

All of us pretty much brought our regular tripods - it was a Sirui convention in the wilderness!

All of us pretty much brought our regular tripods – it was a Sirui convention in the wilderness!

Western Arthurs : January 21-26 2017

This January, I had the good fortune to hike part of the Western Arthurs Traverse with Luke Tscharke, Tim Wrate and Francois Fourie. This was a trip that we had planned for last year but had to pull out due to the bushfires preventing access to the trailhead. The weather gods this year did smile upon us at times and we all head a great trip. In all, we spent 6 days and 5 nights on the trail and experienced just about everything we could have hoped for. This is an ‘adapted’ version of the diary I kept while on the track.

Saturday : 21st Jan :

Hobart’s as beautiful as ever but there’s some strange connection between my arrival here and fatal hit and run incidents. Last year, a woman and her unborn child, this year 6 dead as a result of a crazed driver hurtling through Bourke Street. I’m in a better frame of mind thanks to a far lesser state of anxiety from Marianne and a happy farewell. I was sad to be leaving Charlotte’s affections while it was hard to feel the same about screaming Jaime as I left for work that morning. Ah the terrible twos. QANTAS really do need to get their act together. Nearly all of their flights were delayed or late as I listened to announcement after announcement in at the boarding gates. The rest of the process though, was smooth and thanks for Francois’ hospitality, I spent the night resting up here in Hobart before hitting the trail. Marianne predicted 130,000 steps for the week but I thought it could have been more!

Monday 23rd January

(Written in retrospect and also some parts added in after the trip)

Reviewing the last 3 days will be difficult to put to paper as the expectations of the hike are just too incredible. Last year , I wrote an article for Australian Photography Magazine about managing expectations (which will be published in April). So this year, as we were headed in, I’m not sure whether it was a defence mechanism on my part to play down expectations or whether I was distracted ; but there wasn’t the same degree of hype.

Luke & Tim were waiting for us with their massive bags undoubtedly full of post trek comforts I wish I had packed . With all things jammed in the rear of Francois’ car, we headed for the trailhead in somewhat grey conditions and stopped at  New Norfolk Banjos for morning tea and a lunch pickup. This seems to have become a routine for us in the last two years! Getting past the town of Maydena was a huge psychological relief as that was where our literal roadblock form last year lay. Once we were at Scott’s Peak Dam, it was hard to gauge what the Arthurs would ultimately look like as we knew we had hours of scrub and mud to squelch through before the plains opened up for views of the range. Two people who had just completed the full traverse looked reassuringly ‘not that muddy’. Famous last words!

Preparing for the trek : Reorganisation fresh from the airport and last minute wholesome lunch.

Preparing for the trek : Reorganisation fresh from the airport and last minute wholesome lunches.

The first hour of walking saw little in the way of mud but for the next two, approaching and beyond Junction Creek, it was pretty foul stuff to get through. Keep your head down and walk, you just had to. Most of the decisions to be made were around going through the middle or attempting to skirt around the puddles and bog. Both ended up in many a foot, knee and even hip into the mud. Not the most pleasant of experiences and the mud would never truly leave the equation for the rest of the trip.

Easy going at the start of the Port Davey track

Easy going at the start of the Port Davey track : Luke looking happy

The track starts to open up before the range at Junction Creek

Tim and Francois slosh through mud as the track starts to open up before the Western Arthurs at Junction Creek

Brief pause at Junction Creek for afternoon snacks

Brief pause at Junction Creek for afternoon snacks

Our walking time was 1315 to 1600 to Junction Creek.  After the plains slog and a short unintentional detour off route, we arrived at the base of Alpha Moraine at 550pm. We decided to push for the top of the range that evening and while I didn’t sweat much , it still took a lot of energy to get there at 745 pm for ‘no light’ as a reward. We couldn’t look far for camping spots as light was fading by the time Tim and Luke arrived at 830pm. The wind was also picking up at our relatively exposed camp site. I thought I would sleep a welcome sleep of the dead, but it wasn’t to be; yet another restless and sleepless camp night after the first of many freeze dried meals cooked in the vestibule of our tent.

Halfway up Alpha Moraine. better to just keep the head down and climb until you suddenly aren't climbing any more!

Halfway up Alpha Moraine. Better to just keep the head down and climb until you suddenly aren’t climbing any more! 750m ascent in 2km is the meaningless equation. The trailhead is seen in the distance near Lake Pedder at the top left.

SUNDAY

The morning looked grey as I peered out of our tent, but I was keen to head for Mount Hesperus. The others were initially more keen to take it easy after the previous day’s slog,  and given that my phone GPS failed, I was not keen to roll the dice on getting lost in the mist covering unknown terrain. Now that I’ve walked the terrain, I’d have had a little more confidence in doing so. The light ended up being absolutely beautiful but I was in no position to shoot the peak of it. Ironically, the light was best seen from closer to the camp site. Nonetheless, we all still captured a stunning introduction to the range.

Strata : Layers of cloud , land and light featuring Scott's Peak and Lake Pedder

Strata : Layers of cloud , land and light featuring Scott’s Peak and Lake Pedder

Layer upon layer of mountains and changing conditions ; a feature of the Western Arthurs.

Layer upon layer of mountains and changing conditions ; a feature of the Western Arthurs.

The rest of the day was spent making our way up and down toward the saddle between Mount Sirius and Orion. As we did this , we passed Lake Fortuna in the mist, and Lake Cygnus which were both remarkable spots on their own but for the waiting jewel of the range in Lake Oberon beyond. Climbing up and down Mount Hayes was a challenge , particularly one section of steep scree. Our aim was to have lunch at Square Lake past Procyon Peak. We thought we would be there on a few deflating occasions , only to be led to another ascent and descent en route. When we finally did get to Square Lake, we stopped for an hour’s lunch and napped on the rocks in bright sunshine. It was there that I ate my infamous Kung Pao chicken meal.

Walking through the mists toward Lake Fortuna

Walking through the mists toward Lake Fortuna

Luke walking at the base of Mount Hesperus

Luke walking at the base of Mount Hesperus

Walking below the mist at Lake Cygnus

Walking below the mist at Lake Cygnus

Descending the scree slopes of Mount Hayes

Descending the scree slopes of Mount Hayes

 

Afternoon snooze at Square Lake.

Afternoon snooze at Square Lake.

Following our sunbaked snooze, we gathered water from Square Lake’s outlet creek and headed to the pass above Lake Oberon. The uphill was surprisingly short , taking only 30 minutes or so. Francois and I then darted off to take a look at the famous entrance to Oberon and its numerous Pandani. We believe that we found the 3 pandani made famous by the late Peter Dombrovskis and for personal reasons, I opted not to take an image here.

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After pitching tent and relaxing , the late afternoon and evening blue sky shoot was from Mount Sirius and Square Lake. Despite plain skies, it was such a beautiful evening and we knew we wouldn’t get much sleep due to astro conditions being on offer. The milky way was predicted to rise at around 230am.

Quadrantic: Beautiful evening light illuminates the quarzite peaks of Mount Procyon and Mount Hayes in the background. Luke Tscharke is seen in the mid ground as well as two tents along the shores of Square Lake for scale.

Quadrantic: Beautiful evening light illuminates the quarzite peaks of Mount Procyon and Mount Hayes in the background. Luke Tscharke is seen in the mid ground as well as two tents along the shores of Square Lake for scale.

MONDAY

Sleepless while waiting for the stars is one thing, sleepless because of Kung Pao diarrhoea is another (or was it the Beef Bourginon???). Explosive diarrhoea all night including an effort at the Oberon entrance was not a pretty sight and left me drained for the rest of the day. Luke, Francois and I shot some astro frames before meandering along the numerous intersecting paths offering views of Oberon with pandani in the foreground. It was a magical kind of dawn and morning as we watched moonrise, milkyway rise and then sunrise within a few hours and I’m hoping the images represent my wonderful memories from that morning (health issues aside) . Following breakfast, it was yet another jaunt up to Mount Sirius to catch receding shadows of Mount Pegasus on the Lake. I think we had more photographic success from up here again.

Genesis : Moonrise, Milkway rise and the beginnings of sunrise as shot from the saddle above Lake Oberon.

Genesis : Moonrise, Milkway rise and the beginnings of sunrise as shot from the saddle above Lake Oberon.

Cleansing: The sun starts to peak over the top of Mount Pegasus bathing the pandani garden in red hues.

Cleansing: The sun starts to peak over the top of Mount Pegasus bathing the pandani garden in red hues.

Hypnosis : Cloud rush past overhead as we looked down upon Lake Oberon from the summit of Mount Sirius. 15 stop ND filter used for the sky effect.

Hypnosis : Cloud rush past overhead as we looked down upon Lake Oberon from the summit of Mount Sirius. 15 stop ND filter used for the sky effect.

Standing atop Mount Sirius

Luke and Francois standing atop Mount Sirius

After breaking camp, we bumped into two very seasoned brothers who were 100% gristle and sinew and knew the path probably better than anyone. They gave us some pointers while we listened and soaked in the experience. Then, it was time for the famous descent into Lake Oberon.

Honestly speaking, some may make light of it , but I had never done anything quite like this before. It really was rock climbing for 30-50m of the trail where false moves could have resulted in serious injury. Nonetheless, we all made it down (several times during the next few days) without incident. On arrival to the camp site, the weather was balmy but expected to turn. With that in mind, we all took a cleansing dip in the freezing waters of Oberon while getting ourselves refreshed. A quick afternoon nap came and went and the weather began to look inclement.

Our beach camp site at Lake Oberon - clothes out in the temporary sun in an effort to de-stink .

Our beach camp site at Lake Oberon – clothes out in the temporary sun in an effort to de-stink .

Francois and I tried to head up Mount Pegasus before dinner but I chickened out at the sight of ascending fairly smooth and sheer exposed rock faces. I feared with my 2 hours of sleep that coordination might not be at my strongest. I earned a new respect for those who continue on to do the whole traverse with heavy packs on.

Mount Orion and its shadow as seen from a tarn at the base of Mount Pegasus

Mount Orion and its shadow as seen from a tarn at the base of Mount Pegasus

We all settled down to use our phones at a tarn just above the campsite which still strikes as being odd. Yes , the weather forecast is helpful but the sight of four walkers sitting down staring at their phones seems kind of like an antithesis.  After dinner, there was no opportunity for photography as strong winds, then heavy rain set in and did not let up. By 8pm , I was asleep in bed and having the best camp sleep I had ever had.

TUESDAY

6am : no sunrise , steady rain and we were getting battered by wind. To pee or not to pee, that was the question ……bladder wins out and an opportunity to refix a few stray guy lines.

8am: everyone decided to skip breakfast and stay asleep. A good call as the buffeting continued. it was good opportunity to catch up with diary writing.

1pm. Finally we ventured out of our tents for lunch and inspected the sogginess of our beach /mud camp. In retrospect, it wasn’t the best idea given the rain would predictably transform the sand into a boggy morass. After lunch, more snoozing as the rain continued but finally by about 4pm, it relented! I decided to go walking to the tarn for some attempted long exposures while Luke shot the various streams around the base which are clearly visible from above.

730pm: After an early dinner, I decided that I would go up for sunset on the saddle given that there were patches of blue sky. What a grand decision that ended up being as I made the ascent in surprisingly short time (20 minutes). I was greeted by blazing pre-sunset light and shot this from halfway up Mount Orion before heading to the Pandani forest overlooking Oberon. The sunset eventually petered out and as I was heading back to the trail, I bumped into Luke and Tim who had decided to come up after me. Together we went down in the dark with safety in numbers. The only incident being Tim’s shoe getting wedged between a root and rock necessitating some extraction. That night, sleep did not come at all which wasn’t surprising given that I had slept 18 of the last 24 hours.

Epiphany : Glorious light illuminates Square Lake and distant peaks during blustery conditions nearing Mount Orion's summit

Epiphany : Glorious light illuminates Square Lake and distant peaks during blustery conditions nearing Mount Orion’s summit

Aftermath : Sunset faded away but had some moments of gold illuminating the foreground pandani.

Aftermath : Sunset faded away but had some moments of gold illuminating the foreground pandani.

WEDNESDAY

A keen 430am awakening to the sound of our alarms and we set ourselves to climb up for one more view of Lake Oberon. Each time we did the climb I felt that it had become more instinctive and less of a risk. The conditions themselves looked promising and ended up delivering in rays of golden light! So much so , that we hung around shooting well after peak light. It was one of those mornings where you start to pack it all in with satisfaction, and then even more light happened. In a small cove of pandani, it was  difficult not to get in each other’s way but I think we managed to do it well enough. A few selfies later, many SD cards later and we were headed back to camp quite satisfied with what we had achieved. We even dared to dream about other epic shots for the rest of the trip that would unfortunately never eventuate.

Glory : Morning light breaks through rapidly moving cloud while illuminating this beautiful pandani shelf.

Glory : Morning light breaks through rapidly moving cloud while illuminating this beautiful pandani shelf.

Luke lining up a composition in epic lighting on our last morning of shooting

Luke lining up a composition in epic lighting on our last morning of shooting

Packing up the tents was messy business that morning as the waterlogged bog of a beach had infiltrated all of our gear. Even Tim’s tank of a tent suffered some minor tent pole damaged from the high winds. The climb out from Oberon was a last hurrah and a fitting farewell to an epic location. Timelapsed selfies were done and the plans adjusted to Lake Cygnus for lunch.

Climbing out of Lake Oberon - just above the 'tricky' section

Climbing out of Lake Oberon – just above the ‘tricky’ section

Farewell to Lake Oberon

Farewell to Lake Oberon

Though we thought we were prepared for all the ups and downs, there were still seemingly more than we thought.  At the top of our ascent out of Oberon, the weather started to turn a little funky.  By the time of the ascent to Mount Hayes and its scree slopes, it was nearly 2pm and we thought that we’d have arrived at Cygnus already. That last section dragged on and the weather forecast was poor, so we pushed on to pitch tent at Cygnus. Along the way, a father-son duo and pretty clueless French dude were the only other walkers we saw on the trail.

When we arrived at Lake Cygnus, Francois ducked off and discovered the cache of beer he had hidden a year ago when he did the trek with Ben Wilkinson!  Legend! If only I actually drank beer, the moment would have been even more momentous. The plan was to spend the next 2 nights here and wait out bad weather for a walk out on Friday. The site was pleasant enough with matted floors but a few things conspired against us.

  • Weather : this turned foul late afternoon to the point of whiteout at dinner time. Luke returned from a search for a Dombrovskis composition overlooking Mount Hayes and was soaked through.
  • Toilets: F*@*#@me ! overflowing and with maggots no less.
  • Poor calculation: It was going to be fairly unrealistic to leave after sunrise on Friday and still make it back to have Francois meet his promise to Erin to be at the Hobart beerfest by 5pm.

Dinner was had in our vestibules where we narrowly dodged a gas cannister explosion. For an awkward few seconds we just watched the fire slowly recede around the cannister kind of just hoping it wouldn’t escalate.  Sleep actually came fast until the diarrhoea arrived again at 1030pm. It was near whiteout conditions outside and I began to frantically search for a spot to dump since I knew I wouldn’t make it to ‘that’ disgusting toilet on time. So much for eco camping – I ended up having to dig a hole just off the path and hope it wouldn’t contaminate the water source. I suspect the French dude we bumped into , whose tent was adjacent to ours, may have heard some interesting sounds.  Fortunately this was a once off and I did sleep the rest of the night.

THURSDAY

We awoke to greyness and showers. This consolidated a last minute decision to head out one day early and it was a good one. After having some sips of my beer and sharing the rest around, we broke camp and prepared for a long hike out. We calculated 8 hours on the trail and our start was delayed by a Luke toilet call, in ‘that’ toilet.

1 year old mountain chilled beer!

1 year old mountain chilled beer!

For the ridge sections, we battled horizontal wind and rain the whole time with no visibility whatsoever. So much for epic views from atop Mount Hesperus! Luke still managed to stop for some photos though in those conditions, the sony was proving its liability in damp conditions. We were glad to reach the leeward side of the mountain for the 750m descent down Alpha Moraine. Tim and Luke’s bulging knees held up but not Tim’s already torn boots.

Alpha Moraine was a soul destroyer on the way up and to a lesser degree on the descent. It did require constant concentration not only to negotiate drops , but the ever present mud. On the way down there were passing showers and light typical of our whole time on the range. Francois, Tim and I managed the descent in 75 minutes and waited a good 30 minutes for Luke before deciding on lunch at Junction Creek only 3km away. The Aus Geo article should have some pretty good passing light from that descent. As predicted, the track was a boggy stream which worsened on the approach to Junction Creek. Thanks to Tim’s steam train efforts, we made rapid time to the campsite in 45m minutes where we had our last freeze dried fill of food for the trip. HOORRRAYAY. Luke arrived at camp a little while later and after lunch we were off again on our last leg! The weather down below had warmed significantly so I ended up leaving waterproofs only below but hiking in a T shirt.

Wet but at least having seen off Alpha Moraine . This group was on their way up to pretty bad conditions up top but which were predicted to clear.

Wet but at least having seen off Alpha Moraine . This group was on their way up to pretty bad conditions up top but which were predicted to clear.

Our approach for this boggy section was simple. Mud in the way? Bash right through it! This did make things easier to the point that the last 10km went by in 2.5 hours. This included a waist deep episode for Francois and three false ends in forests that were morale sapping. Tim and Luke were only 30 minutes behind for this leg. Along the way, we met a few parties heading out on Australia day. A guided group of 4 led by the same  guide we met on the ferry out from the Overland Track last year. He was leading Hobart photographer Sohee Kim to Lake Oberon. There was an ill prepared trio with no gaiters ! I’m sure their feet were suffering from each sucking step threatening to pull their boots off.  Finally a solo traverser who gave us an indication that we were only 1 hour from the car.

When the end finally came, it was sweet! Our gear was scattered, my excess weight in fresh clothes was put to good use and overall, we felt just that much more human.  100,000 steps and 1400 storeys of climbing, 1300 photographs and a few hours of footage concluded here. The 3 hour drive back was rewarded with pizza, soft drink and a 5 minute shower before crashing into a mattressed bed. END

Mud above and below Tim's gaiters and the smashed up boots

Mud above and below Tim’s gaiters and the smashed up boots

I’ll remember this trip with fondness for a long time. The group banter, the quality tent time, the wild, changeable, beautiful and horrendous weather, the amazing views of grand and prehistoric scenery, the f@#$ explosive diarrhoea, the sore shoulders, the fatigued legs, the scoparia riddled cuts. It was ALL worth it and I’d love to do it again ( and again) in the future! It might even be worth hiding a cache of beer up there again 🙂

 

Farewell Lake Oberon , until next time!

Farewell Lake Oberon , until next time!