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A Wow for Laowa?

In the last month or so, I’ve had the opportunity to use Laowa’s 12mm F2.8 zero distortion lens along with its own filter holder and Nisi’s custom made filter holder. The version I have is for a canon mount. Overall, it’s a great piece of equipment for a reasonable price and takes up very little real estate in an already fully stuffed camera bag. Like most gear however, it’s not without its issues. I’ve only taken it out for three shoots and used it around the house, so there may be aspects that I haven’t had the chance to test entirely but I’m more than happy to test any aspect requested (if I get the chance to shoot!)

Unfortunately I’m not really tech-savvy when it comes to lens reviews, I just want to know how it serves my specific purposes. With that in mind, this is a rough index of what I’m going to comment upon.

  1. The lens itself
  2. How wide is 12mm ? Is it too wide?
  3. Night photography
  4. Sharpness stopped down
  5. Flare and sunstars
  6. Filter holders (native and Nisi)

The lens:

I’m not going to bother with discussing things like packaging. It’s sufficient and professional . What surprised me out of the box was how compact this unit is. It weight (610g) would allow me to bring it on hikes though perhaps only those where astro photography is a priority. It feels solid in the hand and appears to be built like a tank. Its size also allows a huge bonus for a lens of this focal length ; the ability to use 100mm filter kits! As a prime lens with manual focus, it would be difficult to achieve quick ‘on the fly’ shots without risking focus issues. Having said that, because it’s a prime lens, it has a nice feature of charting hyperfocal length on the lens itself .  You can hence position focus at infinity at one end , and make sure there are no objects closer than the focal length marked at the other end of the scale for your given aperture (see diagram below). I have yet to shoot panoramas with this lens but there is a marked ‘entrance pupil’ on the lens that assists with finding a nodal point .

The lens with its bulbous front element.

The rightmost number indicates the current aperture. The middle row of numbers indicates that focus at F5.6 will be between approximately 0.45 to 0.7m. If you wanted to use this as a walkabout lens without thinking, you could adjust the leftmost marker to infinity and not shoot anything closer to the focal length indicated on the right marker

How wide is 12mm?

The answer is VERY wide. This is probably best shown with some images which I took at Lake Bonney. The first image was taken with my Canon 16-35mm F4 lens. The second image was taken with the Laowa albeit, standing a few metres further back. You can see the inclusion of the tree on the left. This makes for a lot of possibilities with sweeping foregrounds but could lead to minimising of anything that’s not very imposing in the background.

16mm shot taken at Lake Bonney

12mm showing the inclusion of the additional tree on the left but minimising of the furthermost trees as seen in the 16mm version

Swirling foregrounds for waterscapes become very interesting with the 12mm. Unfortunately, given I was standing in the water, I did not take a comparison shot with the 16-35mm

Night photography:

As an owner of the 16-35mm F4 lens , I was making do with F4 for night images so once again, the prospect of a wide angle F2.8 lens was extremely appealing. The other lens I was considering was the 16-35mm F2.8 III. My version II has taken a fair battering and I had always had issues with coma and softness in the corners which meant that I was willing to sacrifice one stop of light to use the 16-35mm F4. Finding focus in the dark has always been a little finicky but achievable. With this lens, as in the example illustrated above, I set the far focus for my aperture at infinity meaning that I could have everything in focus from approximately 1.5m and beyond. During this shoot, I did not check to see whether the infinity focus itself is true infinity. This technique worked quite well for me. The main issues I wanted to explore were a) how sharp is this lens at F2.8 at the centre and in the corners? b) how does this compare with the canon 16-35mm F4? c) Did the focusing method above result in ‘missed’ focus. The images below demonstrate the results. The Laowa is a little soft at the corners but still better than the 16-35mm F2.8 II. Centre sharpness was just fine . One interesting phenomenon not related to the lens itself was the ‘ole 500/focal length rule for still stars. At 12mm , I though I could therefore get away with 40 second exposures and have no trailing. For some reason, exposures of 30 seconds or more still showed significant trailing which means that rule doesn’t seem to apply for very wide focal lengths??

100% crops from the same image taken at F2.8 30 seconds. You can see some softness in the bottom image but not a great deal of coma.

Corners of the Laowa vs Canon 16-35mm F4. The Laowa was a 30 second exposure, the Canon 25 seconds.

Final edited image of the scene demonstrated in the first image. A second foreground exposure was taken at lower iso for cleaner noise in the dark water.

Sharpness at F11 and beyond 

Most of the time in the field, I’m shooting between F11 to F16 since I tend to shoot with foreground elements present. The images below show the centre vs corner sharpness at 100% viewing in LR of the RAW file (with shadows lifted so you can see the detail). They were taken within a minute of each other with the same lighting conditions.  I think there is very little between the Laowa and the Canon lens at the centre while there is some softness of the Laowa in the corner comparison. Note there wasn’t a lot of chromatic aberration even with this kind of dramatic lighting going on.

Not much difference in centre sharpness between the two lenses

Both are a little fuzzy in the extreme corners but canon seems a reasonably clear winner here?

Sunstars and Flare:

Stopped down to F22, I’ve had a couple of opportunities to shoot sunstars. The 7 aperture blades do seem to provide a good star but perhaps not as aesthetically pleasing as the Canon 16-35mm F4 ( and F2.8II). Shooting directly into light does give a circular flare which I’ll have to experiment with when there’s more direct sun.

Different types of flare evident between the Laowa and Canon lenses.

Laowa’s sunstar is quite appealing

Filter Holders:

 I received my lens with Laowa’s own filter holder. I had heard some horrendous stories about it so I was prepared for the worst. In actual fact, the current version I received was nowhere near as terrible as was made out to be. It clips directly on to the front of the lens and has slots for two 100mm filter and a 95mm polariser. I don’t own a 95mm CPL so this was an aspect of their filter holder that I could not test. It did cause vignetting but once again, not that troublesome as you can see from the images below. It’s main limitation (other than the 95mm CPL ) is the fact that ND filters with foam gaskets to prevent light leak just do not fit into the slots in the correct orientation. In an attempt to slot them in with the foam facing outward, you can see the somewhat amusing result below.

Nisi filters however do provide a custom adapter ring which also easily slots on to the front ring of the lens. It allows their standard CPL to be used as well as slots for 2 ND filters. I wanted to see how the three slot filter would perform and unfortunately , with three filter slots in place, even the Nisi holder does result equivalent vignetting as Laowa’s holder. Since I have two filter holders, I will have to remove one slot from one but I can see that for many shooters, having to remove one slot might limit options stacking when using other lenses and wanting to stack three filters. I will be using the Nisi version of the holder simply because this allows me to use a CPL and ND filters.

Vignetting of the Laowa holder with 2 slots vs Nisi holder with 3 slots

Attempted (and unsuccessful)  long exposure with the Laowa and a successful one with the Nisi holder

A) Laowa filter holder B) Nisi adapter ring attached C) Nisi holder with 3 slots attached D) Nisi with standard CPL


Overall, I think the Laowa 12mm F2.8 is a good quality lens but not quite at the standard of the better Canon L lenses. It’s good for photographers whose style leans toward expansive foregrounds and grand scenes. It’s also a very good lens for milkyway photography. It’s a solidly built lens that so far seems durable (I’ll have to comment on this a year down the line) and there are options for using 100mm filters which is pretty unique for a lens of this focal length. The Nisi filter holder is definitely the more practical of the two filter holders that are available. I don’t think I would bring this as a sole lens for a backpacking trip since it would be too wide for many documentary or detail scenes. For those used to shooting not quite so wide , it may take some time to get used to finding different styles of compositions.  For $1400 AUD, it’s less than half the RRP of the Canon 16-35mm F2.8 III and about the same price as the 16-35mm F4.

I’ll be honest in saying that before I received this lens,  I wouldn’t have gone out of my way to buy it.  But now that I have it, I do realise that it has opened up doors. I’ll pretty much use it exclusively for my milky way shoots and will definitely bring it for most other landscape shoots excluding the multiday backpacking trips. I hope that the images and information was helpful to you and for those of you who own it, I’d be interested to hear of your experiences! It’s a ‘wow’ to Laowa from me 🙂

Beautiful skies over Encounter Bay. Shot with a Nisi filter holder and 4 stop soft GND.

Quick Tips: Live view exposure simulation and long exposures

Do you love using ND filters for long exposures? Do you have trouble calculating exposure times for scenes with ND filters? Here’s one trick I’d like to share that relies on your camera’s live view exposure simulation which can be used in conjunction or possibly even instead of an external app. These are some groundwork rules to know before using this technique:

  • Every doubling of ISO results in the sensor being more sensitive to one more ‘stop of light’.
  • Every doubling of shutter speed results in one more ‘stop of light’ let through to the sensor
  • (Every multiplication of 1.4 of aperture results in one ‘less stop light’ being let through to the sensor)
  • All of the above , in default DSLR settings, are three ‘clicks’ of a dial.
  • Long exposures tend to lead to noise , so try  to shoot with low iso  (iso100 would be ideal)

With these rules in mind, this is how I do a quick shutter speed calculation in the field.

  1. Compose your scene without the ND filter on and pay particular attention to using the desired aperture in your final shot to keep things as simple as possible.
  2. Place your ND filter on.
  3. Turn on live view (if you haven’t already) and set the shutter speed to 30 seconds.
  4. Bump the iso up until you have the correct exposure on live view
  5. Calculate your exposure time needed for correct exposure at low iso. For example, if iso200 was the correct exposure at 30 seconds, then a 1 minute exposure will  be needed at iso100. If iso800 was the correct exposure at 30 seconds, then a 4 minute exposure will be required at iso100. If iso 6400 was the correct exposure at 30 seconds, then a 32 minute exposure would be required (but I think at this level of darkness, the camera’s live view simulation would start to KO itself!)
  6. Take the shot .

Other considerations:

  1. If you are shooting at dawn, you  might need to factor in changing light during your exposure. I would shoot slightly SHORTER than the calculated exposure
  2. If you are shooting after dusk, you will need to factor in loss of light and I would shoot slightly LONGER than the calculated exposure

See the video below for an example of how quick this can work for you in the field, and the final image :


Remarkable Rocks ; Long exposure image shot at iso100, F11, 200 seconds.

Remarkable Rocks ; Long exposure image shot at iso100, F11, 200 seconds.


April Fool’s

The month started off with an appropriately foolish status update on facebook. I stated that I was quitting my day job as a doctor and transitioning to the world of instagram fame . Many people reading that thread believed I was stating the truth and were giving me heart warming support! I took it well and truly as a compliment that people felt that Marianne and I could pull it off as full time ‘everlook photography’ but in reality, we both enjoy the stability of our regular jobs.

Green goodness transforming during the month of April . A third visit was too late as most of the leaves had dropped!

I had started this year with an intent to create a few field videos mixed in with a description of the shooting rationale while browsing lightroom and to finish off with an in depth description of post processing steps in photoshop. Four months in to the year and I still have the raw footage left unused due to a lack of motivation and a stronger desire to look after my own needs. At times, a personal need can be to look after the needs of others, but a busy schedule at work meant that I was doing enough of that during the day. After hours, has been left more as ‘me time’ as a result. Hopefully, the creative educational juices will get up and running again some time soon though. Stay tuned, but we may have some discount codes for Nisi filters available to bundle with educational content.

One of the scenes around which I hope to create some online tutorial from field to finish.

Hopefully, we will add to this collection of tutorials !

Shooting opportunities were good at the start of this month. An overnight solo trip to shoot the stars and dawn and Lake Bonney was very fulfilling and this was followed up by a four day family trip to Kangaroo Island where we based ourselves at Vivonne Bay. During this road trip, we managed to shoot some of the local icons ‘properly’ to make up for previous attempts which were not so successful in 2007 and 20012. Hopefully, we will be able to explore more of the island, particularly its east coast and north coast in future trips. These are some of the highlights.

Kingscote’s old pier has some very cool wonky pylons to photograph at dawn

Remarkable Rocks : The rapidly shifting cloud during the day gave great opportunity to keep using Nisi’s ND filters

Little Sahara has been popularised but walk farther and you can still find untouched dunes!

Admiral’s Arch was ablaze at sunset!

Vivonne Bay gave us a nice subtle farewell, accentuated by movement seen through a 10 stop Nisi filter.

On the editorial front, we managed to snag a cover for Australian Photography Magazine’s May cover as well as a full page image in Australian Geographic. Fingers crossed for some articles in Australian Photography later this year!

A modified version of Mount Geryon appeared in Aus Geo magazine for May and June

The rest of the month was spent sorting and editing images from these trips. Lately, with increasing instagram engagement and requests for prints from various sources, I have been much more careful with editing. In the past, my emphasis on editing was to rapidly have images to show on social media to keep ‘momentum’ going (whatever that means in the social media world). This would often mean editing on the fly on laptop screens or perhaps not so careful editing whereby and requests for print would result in a complete redo of the image. These days, I’m preparing every image as though someone will request it for a large print. This takes more time up front but less time trying to recreate an image from scratch should the original file be imperfect.

Long exposure at Lake Bonney – an image I spend a bit more time on up front should someone want it as a print!

By putting images up for viewing on social media, it does expose the images to all sorts of critique and the latest issue I’d like to briefly mention is the idea of ‘kitsch’ art . I’ll admit I had never heard the term kitsch before I saw it appear on one of our images on 500px. I was certain that it had negative connotations and in some definitions, the theme of ‘poor taste’ comes into play. In other definitions, it refers to taking the easy option in terms of depicting popular scenes in a popular style. Regarding the latter, I find it no insult whatsoever to consider our images ‘kitsch’ just as I have no issue with popular music or watching marvel cinematic universe movies. Excluding popular tastes from ones repertoire of enjoyment is an individual decision but I find that making an attempt to enjoy all forms of expression has far more potential for happiness than restricting one’s vision. I find I delete as many songs from a ‘popular’ playlist that I will never seek to listen to again as I do from an ‘indie’ playlist. Seek not to deride but to  accept other’s presentations of joy and your life will be ever more the fuller 🙂

A rehash of an old image turned out to be very popular and was something I had in mind since mid 2015 but never got round to processing this scene! For what its worth , the clarity slider was used very sparingly on this shot (as suggested by a comment that was more ‘attack’ than critique. There really isn’t a place for that kind of response in any forum!

Amidst the landscape shooting, Marianne and I were also involved with her brother’s wedding. It was an opportunity for us to take some family photos of the kids in particular (and to remind us why we gave up doing formal wedding photography!)

Marianne, Jaime and Charlotte at the wedding where she was the flower girl.

Marianne, Jaime and Charlotte at the wedding where she was the flower girl.

Thanks as ever for looking and though May will be quiet in the field, it will be hectic with some writing assignments to finish off and preparing for our first stall appearance at a the Red Umbrella Market on May 29. See you there if you are in Adelaide maybe?