USA Canada Diaries: Jasper and the clearing light


Tuesday November 1

Our packup routine had mostly been done the night before , so we headed off the Jasper shortly before 11am and spent a last few moments appreciating the magic of a winter seen from a southern hemisphere visitor’s viewpoint.

The drive to Jasper was memorable for a few reasons. The scenery in white was simply gorgeous but this also led to our downfall as we looked to pull over in the snow and nearly slid of an embankment! Fortunately, before we slid too far, we had assistance from a passer by who helped us push the car back up and out of danger. Marianne was overcome by this near need to call a tow truck in the middle of nowhere (near Bow summit) but thankfully it was all resolved very quickly. We found that in the winter season , amenities are scarce on the icefields parkway and so another drama occurred when we could not find a toilet for some time ! Luckily that sorted itself as we backtracked from the Columbia icefield centre to Winslow.

Arriving at Jasper, we settled in just after 4 and ended up photographing Pyramid mountain right outside our accommodation. Our dinner at Pizza hut /KFC hybrid was somewhat forgettable and for some reason I find myself liking the junk food back home more! Oh there was again no light booo!!!

That night, our accommodation at Pyramid Lake was a bit squishy so we had to sleep on the sofa bed while Charlotte had a beautiful loft to herself and Jaime slept in the dedicated bedroom

Wednesday November 2

A long drive for me on this morning. I headed down to Tangle mountain which was over an hour away. The drive wouldn’t feel so long if I weren’t arriving back so late due to the late sunrise times here (nearly 9am). By the time I returned home, it can be close to 11am and the kids were no longer sleeping in much past 8-830.

The road south along the icefields parkway was pretty whited out on that morning. For some sections I felt like I was making my own path but this did mean that I would have semi winter conditions for the shots that I had in mind. The compositions were all based winter shots I had seem from the area but I felt like I wanted to actually get a reflection rather than just dark water motion . I arrived there an hour before dawn to be joined by another car pulling over – I didn’t know what was up so I tapped on the occupants window. Turned out she was just snoozing on the way to Banff. Phew , no serial killer to deal with!

Tangle Peak with some breaking light at dawn

Tangle Peak with some breaking light at dawn

To put a long story short, I finally saw some semblance of light! Hooray!! Then it was home with some grocery shopping and a quick trip to Athabasca Falls with the girls. These were a nice falls but the lack of water motion meant that some of the possibilities photographically were not there. I’m not sure what we’ll do with our middle of the day shots except perhaps put them up as Stock? We stopped on the way back to shoot from a bridge overlooking Pyramid mountain but once again, not a lot on offer and the kids busied themselves throwing rocks into the water, a new pasttime for them it would seem. Back to home for bed time for Jaime before another short foray out

That evening, we headed out toward Maligne Lake. There wasn’t a lot of point heading all the way out to Maligne since the ferry to spirit island was closed, I’m no kayaker and the immediate shore did not seem that attractive. Instead, we stopped at Medicine Lake which was a bit of a mud pit given the low water levels. It did give a nice view from up above – translating this into photography was difficult especially given the yet again, grey sunset lighting on offer. Back to bed!

Thursday November 3

Dawn light at Medicine Lake! Hooray! Kind of anyway. The light was actually happening every single direction initially except for at the actual dawn in that’s the way it stayed until well after sunrise. I got thoroughly bogged down there and filthy needing a good cleaning on my return home but to see light for the first time this trip , even if the pink wasn’t in the right direction, was exhilarating .

Light over Medicine Lake , a bit of a mud pit!

Light over Medicine Lake , a bit of a mud pit!

I wasn’t back too late on that morning which gave us time for a walk around the town of Jasper. Sure it was a weekday but it seemed like everyone in town was just a little sleepy, a little oppressed, a little depressed and overall, it just didn’t seem to give off much of a happy holiday vibe at all? Strange, I had always imagined it to be this idyllic place that indeed Banff and Canmore have turned out to be. Perhaps it’s because our trip was timed to be at those places on the weekends? While Marianne attended to retail therapy, I took the girls walking down the main street visiting various  bear statues, trains and other distractions along the way . The weather looked to be closing in again before we went back to our accommodation for Jaime’s nap.

The last sunset at Jasper was another fizzer . We drove all the way to Sunwapta falls for it and got a little rained on with precious little light but it still would do. The forecast was actually for clear skies which was completely incorrect since we did not see a trace of blue sky!

Sunwapta Falls on a gloomy eerie dusk with low flow.

Sunwapta Falls on a gloomy eerie dusk with low flow.

Friday November 4

I awoke in darkness to the view of stars through our window! The plan was to photograph something locally and so I headed out to the small boardwalked area on Pyramid Lake. There, the milky way was in the perfect location over the island so a few selfies were taken. Before long, I could see wisps of cloud gathering over pyramid mountain with a clear sky to the south east . I could sense amazing light and tried to get Marianne up and out of bed but she wanted to sleep in.

A southern milky way over Pyramid Mountain

A southern milky way over Pyramid Mountain

Light over Pyramid Mountain that Marianne missed out on!

Light over Pyramid Mountain that Marianne missed out on!

So out I raced again after having packed up to transfer the gear! It was the first pink display of light we had seen all trip and pretty nice to finally experience it in a location like this . The pack up routine was quicker than usual and we were ready for departure shortly after 10am. Headed for Canmore.

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Posted on January 17, 2017, in Canada, How we..., M&D Corner and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink. 2 Comments.

  1. Beautiful images Dylan. Bet you wish you were back there now, with this hot spell in Adelaide 🙂

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